Stewart & Clark Speedo 26A, Stripped Down - Lotta Pix

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Stewart & Clark Speedo 26A, Stripped Down - Lotta Pix
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ricks - Surf City on Saturday, November 17, 2012 - 09:05 pm:

This is a related thread to the one on Preserving Potmetal. Here, I'm showing the innards, and asking for advice on bearings.




The bearings are rough, and are 1/4" x 9/16". All I can find on McMaster.com is 1/4" x 1/2" or 5/8". What to do?

rdr


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ricks - Surf City on Saturday, November 17, 2012 - 09:14 pm:

Note, the construction of this one is far different from the later 26D with drum odometer. That one has screw adjustment for calibration, and takes a 2 1/2 to 1 drive. This 26A is 1:1, which means the cable is turning 2 1/2 times as fast as it is with the later one.

rdr


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Randy Driscoll on Saturday, November 17, 2012 - 10:54 pm:

How did you get the three retaining pins out of the bezel and what did you use to pull the needle? I'm about ready to dive into a 1:1 model 26.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ricks - Surf City on Saturday, November 17, 2012 - 11:58 pm:

I replaced the pins with #2 screws when I first got it about ten years ago, Randy. I probably pulled the pins with fine side cutter pliers, in order to get a bite.

Don't remember how I pulled the pointer back then, but it came right off with a twist and a tug this time.

Which version 26 do you have, A or B? Looking forward to seeing its innards, too.

rdr


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 12:02 am:

Use 1/4 x 1/2 and sleeve the bearing.

Randy - Use a needle puller. I made mine but don't have a picture of it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 12:20 am:

Here's a quick drawing of what I made. The bottom anvil is slotted for the needle shaft.

Needle Puller


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Craig Anderson, central Wisconsin on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 01:03 am:

McMaster doesn't have everything.
Talk to a Motion Industries branch in your area.

http://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mii/LocationsMI.jsp


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Danial - Veneta OR US Earth Solar System on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 01:12 am:

Craig, I was just about to suggest something similar. McMaster and Grainger employ people who work with catalog numbers. They know next to nothing about bearings or any of the other products they sell.

Take that to a real bearing house like Motion, Applied Ind Tech, Kaman or us and you'll get expert help and options from people who know bearings.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ricks - Surf City on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 01:17 am:

Thanks, guys. Eureka Bearing is a half mile from me. I'll try them on Mon.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les Schubert on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 09:40 am:

Ralph
I don't think the case is "pot metal". I think it is "white bronze".


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ricks - Surf City on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 09:56 am:

That's good news, Les. However, I never heard of it, and can't find any ref of white bronze on wiki. What is it?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 11:34 am:

Ralph

White Bronze (11 lines down) is listed in this Ford chart too.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ricks - Surf City on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 11:50 am:

Thanks, Dan. Guess the lack of swelling anywhere, and the density of these pieces are indicators of white bronze.

Next worry: replacing the bearings. Installing one-piece bearings will require machining, which I'd rather avoid. The races look ok, but there is roughness in rotation. Are new balls available?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ricks - Surf City on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 12:09 pm:

Answered my own question at McMaster.com . I had no idea:

-------------
Bearing-Quality Aircraft-Grade E52100 Alloy Steel

E52100 is considered bearing quality because of its high carbon content, which gives it high hardness. It is often called chrome steel as chromium is the primary alloying element, which makes it very wear resistant.

Warning! Hardness and yield strength are not guaranteed and are intended only as a basis for comparison.
Hardened Precision Balls—Reflective Finish (Inch Sizes)


Hardness: Rockwell C60-C67
Yield Strength: 295,000 psi
Quenched and tempered
Meet ASTM A295.
Dia. . Dia. Tolerance . . Pkg. Qty. Pkg. Grade 25—Sphericity is 0.000025".
1/8" ±0.0001" . . 100 . 9528K11 . $2.90
-----------

For 3 cents each, I can afford to drop a few, which is guaranteed.

rdr


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Randy Driscoll on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 04:13 pm:

Ralph,
Mine is a Y serial numbered model 26, not one that would have come on a Ford; that is why I will use this as my first patient. It has the same two screws by the odometer reset like yours, I'm pretty sure the only difference is the serial number. It will actually be my second attempt, many years ago I took apart a '14 drum style Stewart and it didn't work right after I reassembled it.
I'm thinking I will have to drill out the bezel pins. They are flush. It's either that or tap them in further.
I have a friend that is a clock maker. I'm going to check prices on hand pullers.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 05:28 pm:

Ralph - Have you ever replaced the balls in a bearing? You have to remove the carrier/spacer. These are usually riveted together (one on each side). On newer bearings, these are spot welded together. Then let the balls group to one side and remove the center race. The difficulty is in re-assembly as the spacer has to go back in.

I think I would try cleaning the bearing first. Use a strong solvent like acetone or lacquer thinner to dissolve any old oil or grease and wash out the dirt.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Danial - Veneta OR US Earth Solar System on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 06:11 pm:

Hey Ken, interesting note, some ball bearings called "Max type" bearings literally have a loading slot for the balls in place of the bronze, steel or phenolic cage you are referencing there.

From an industrial point of view, max type bearings have limited use but in a Model T, who knows?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ricks - Surf City on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 08:19 pm:

Note the last two pix, above. The hollow end of the shaft is mushroomed to be the inner race of those balls. The outer race looks like stamped steel, and is pressed into the rotor. Same goes for the back end.

The inner race/collar on the back end is just a push fit on the shaft. It is held in place by the shaft's press fit into the housing. Push this inner race away from the balls, and they all fall out, because there is no retainer for them. That means the loose balls I hope to buy tomorrow will go in the same way, held in place with a dab of grease until the shaft goes in and the inner race is pushed in from the back.

What can go wrong with that?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Danial - Veneta OR US Earth Solar System on Monday, November 19, 2012 - 01:17 am:

From where I'm sitting Ralph, that seems perfectly logical. Or do you know something I don't, and are just pulling my leg..grin...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ricks - Surf City on Monday, November 19, 2012 - 03:51 pm:

Eureka gave me new chrome bearing balls, and it's going back together. I used Mob 1 syn spray lube on the ball bearings, and it turns much smoother. I've read that the lube you use depends on the rpm of the device.

60 mph is 660 wheel rpm, times four on the speedo cable, with about a 4:1 bevel reduction gearset inside, which gets it back to 660 rpm at the rotating magnet. What lube should I use on that gearset?

I used open gear and chain lube on the worm drives in the odometer.

rdr


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