OT HELP! Small engine repair

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration
Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: OT HELP! Small engine repair
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 03:25 pm:

Yesterday I was going to do the first wood splitting of the season. But when I pulled the starter rope the engine stuck. It wasn't just something rubbing or binding. It was something solid hitting something solid and not moving anymore. So today's unplanned project was to open the thing up and investigate.


Seeing the guts, I suspect what the problem may be. But to check it out I want to remove the cam shaft & gear (one piece). To do that I need to get that bearing out of the way, but it's stuck tight on the shaft. What's the best way to get it off without doing any damage?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Will Copeland - Evans Mills NY on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 03:35 pm:

Depending on how it was stored over the off season my first guess would be something has made a nest in the combustion chamber. I'm guessing it ran last season?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Nathan Bright on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 04:00 pm:

bearing puller? like this one?

http://www.ted-kyte.com/3D/Pictures/Bearing%20Puller.jpg


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Cassara Long Island, NY on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 04:18 pm:

Bearing splitter like this:

http://www2.northerntool.com/metal-fabrication/shop-presses/item-145992-1.htm

The arm puller may destroy the bearing.

It's a long time since I pulled a Briggs crank but I think if the flywheel and the ignition plate is removed and the connecting rod is separated from the crank and pushed up to clear the crank it will slide out with the cam as a pair. Remember to keep track of the tappets or they may drop and get in the way. Work with the engine upside down.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Cassara Long Island, NY on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 04:19 pm:

Check the valves before you go any further. Bent or stuck will cause your symptoms.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie B actually in Toms River N.J. on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 04:37 pm:

It's not stuck. It's pressed on. That is a Kohler isn't it? You need to position the crank shaft until you get enough "play" to clear the cam gear. usually that's with the rod fully down.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 04:39 pm:

That bearing should be just a slip/sliding fit on the crank. They're not pressed on. You might try aiming a hair dryer or heat gun at it. (Cover the crank with a rag.) Shouldn't take much heat.

Has someone been hammering on the end of the crank?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie B actually in Toms River N.J. on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 06:00 pm:

OK. You pulled the sump cover. Not the way I'd start but what's done is done. If you haven't yet pulled the spark plug do so before you take anything else apart. The cyl. might be full of oil/fuel/whatever. You seem to know engines: If there's nothing visibly wrong inside the sump DON"T TAKE ANYTHING ELSE APART IN THERE!! If pulling the plug doesn't clear the problem take off the fan/flywheel shroud and check for loose/broken items. It nothing shows you have at least taken stuff off that you'd have to anyway. Is it locked or can you back it off after it stops? There's nothing visible in the pic that's broken but use extreme care: If this eng. is a mid to late 60's Kohler parts are hard to find + expensive. Don't screw with that bearing. again, if Kohler it's pressed on.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 10:13 pm:

Looks briggs to me.If so,remove the flywheel and that will make the crankshaft a bit sloppy in the block,giveing you some space to pull the cam.Chances are if there is no metal fragments in there,no need to take apart.It might be good to check the rod bearing while that close.
IF it is gauded,remove crank,use emery cloth on it to remove the gauded aluminun and then get a new rod.Partstree.com is your friend.punch in make and model number and you can get a picture of the parts and order from them for delivery.
The govenor gears on a briggs would be slid up on the cam shaft.Check them before putting back and be carefull lineing them up.
Also,mark location of valve tappets and put them back in the same place to maintain valve clearance.

I would not monkey with that bearing.It should come apart without messing with it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Monday, November 19, 2012 - 12:01 am:

Support the crank and use a hammer and tapered punch to separate the bearing far enough to get a puller on it. You might need to alternate sides as you tap it.

As an aside, several years back I bent the crankshaft on my new rotary mower. It was obvious I could not remove the crank without sawing it off. I decided that if the crankcase was strong enough to withstand the initial impact, it was likely strong enough to withstand straightening the crank. I put a deep socket over the end of the crank an struck it at appropriate position to straighten it. I checked it with a rule and feeler gages and when it was within a few thousandths, I quit. It mowed the grass for 12 years after my repair.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Monday, November 19, 2012 - 12:48 am:

Not Briggs. Not Kohler. Tecumseh. Charlie wins the Duesenberg phaeton, the $57,000,000 from the Nigerian Oil Ministry, and the Amana range. With the rod and piston all the way down I was able to wiggle the timing gear and cam out past the bearing. I wanted to get a look at the backside of that gear. Here's why.


I noticed the casting mold seam on the counterweight. In the middle of it is a little bump that sticks out more than the rest of the seam.


Shiny marks on the back of the timing gear show where that little bump was hitting the gear. I think I can fix this.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Monday, November 19, 2012 - 07:33 am:

Well glad ye found it.
If it has points try not to alter the setting.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie B actually in Toms River N.J. on Monday, November 19, 2012 - 09:33 am:

That stopped it from turning? Are you sure Steve?
First time for every thing I suppose but have a good look around any way. At least I'd be looking for some thing else. Check out the cam bearings. Their usually just holes drilled in the case with no bushings. If that really is your problem something wore out to cause the interference. Tecumseh. Damn. They went out of business a few years ago. Got taken over by some one. Forget who. Good Luck.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Monday, November 19, 2012 - 09:52 am:

It would help me to understand more if the "hours" of the engine were known.It could be the cam bearings wore just enough to let it bump.
I must say,that is a first.A total stop useally means something metal in the wrong place.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Monday, November 19, 2012 - 10:25 am:

I suspect there was enough wear to allow the cam shaft and gear to slide close enough to catch. So far I haven't found anything else that looks like the guilty item.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Semprez-Templeton, CA on Monday, November 19, 2012 - 11:50 am:

Funny thing, Steve, My neighbor called me recently with the same symptoms on his splitter. His had a Briggs motor.

Turns out the crank shaft rear bearing was shot and the rod cap was hitting the bottom of the case. The parts to rebuild the Briggs & Stratton were more than the price of a new engine!

So we re powered it with a new Honda engine and the problem went away!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Monday, November 19, 2012 - 12:05 pm:

Steve - When you finish that one, I got a 10hp iron block Tecumseh you can fix for me. :-)

Yeah, hard to fix anything these days when you can get a 6.5hp Honda clone for $100. A piston, ring set and gaskets cost more than that.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Monday, November 19, 2012 - 12:25 pm:

Yep,a gas tank for a 5 hp briggs is 150 bucks alone.Rediculas.
Steve,1 thing,just a thought.May not be related.
Check the love joy connector when you reinstall the pump.Make sure it does not apply to much pressure to the crank as in pump pulled in to far.
I have delt with a couple of the honda clones.Reliable and cheap.Kinda hard to argue with.
I did have several of the iron indians but down to just 3 parts engines.dont have a tractor that uses them anymore.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Monday, November 19, 2012 - 05:58 pm:

Mack - Do you need a tank for a 5hp horizontal Briggs?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Monday, November 19, 2012 - 11:30 pm:

Naw,but my neighbor did and we wound up just putting a honda clone on his mower.Just werent worth the 150 bucks for a motor that smoked.
What I really do need for a project is a crankshaft for a Briggs Model 8R-6 .A 6 to1 gear reduction engine.Old part number 26771.Discontinued in 2004.The same crank fits the NR-6 and 6R-6 engines.I have the little planet jr restored and the engine ready to assemble and found the crank and rod were worn bad.very bad.And no one wants to spray weld and turn down saying heating that 1 area will bend the crank and it will break when straightened.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie B actually in Toms River N.J. on Tuesday, November 20, 2012 - 08:54 pm:

Mack:

www.asecc.com/data/briggs_stratton_ipls.html

If you haven't tried this site you might give it a look over. That crank was used in a lot of models. If you're really interested post all the #'s on the shroud here on the Forum. My former boss has quite a large stock of old b&s parts. I can get availability and price for you. I'm willing to pick them up & ship if you're OK with that. Or PM me.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Wednesday, November 21, 2012 - 07:21 am:

Ok,I am busyer than a cat covering his booboos today but I will get it on here or a pm soon.I spent alot of time getting the tractor ready and then found the rod would flop on the crank! :>0


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Wednesday, November 21, 2012 - 01:53 pm:

No wedges, no hammers. It sure beats work.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDqHcvYXtT4


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Grady L Puryear on Wednesday, November 21, 2012 - 08:28 pm:

I love a log splitter, I built one many years ago and split many a stick of firewood, like Mr. Jeff said, sure beats work. I would offer a word of caution if you watch the movie, you best not stand where he is, it will sooner or later catch up with you, a chunk will split and a piece fly up and do some serious hurt, I know several people who have been hurt bad that way, stay back away from the action.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bill in Adelaida Calif on Wednesday, November 21, 2012 - 09:42 pm:

Borrowed a friends splitter a couple of years ago. Of course it was not running as the manifold and carb had grown feet and walked away. It was a 8HP briggs. I couldn't find the carb for it but I did come across a 12HP briggs electric start engine.
Guess how I got the splitter going again :-) Plenty of splitting power and easy to start too!
Bill


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Warren W. Mortensen on Thursday, November 22, 2012 - 06:32 pm:

My dad had 3 log splitters at one time. None of us want to split any more logs though. LOL


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Saturday, November 24, 2012 - 12:47 am:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6y7tSPvmf8


Posting is currently disabled in this topic. Contact your discussion moderator for more information.
Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration