Referance: Adjusting the 4th connecting rod bearing

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Referance: Adjusting the 4th connecting rod bearing
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bud Holzschuh - Panama City, FL on Monday, November 26, 2012 - 06:26 pm:

I recently adjusted all the connecting rod bearings on my 1915 T with the engine in the car. Doing the first 3 was easy, The 4th was a bear. I haven't done many jobs that I was as glad to be done with, as this one !!

Thought it might be a good idea to create list of tips and hints for future T owners doing the same job and put them all in one place. I'll start with some of the things I learned, but please add anything you have learned too!

1. If you drop a nut or cotter pin while working on the 4th rod, it will probably roll into the transmission pan ruining your day. Stuff with rags first!!

2. Easiest to install or remove the cap nuts with the crank throw in the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions. Since you will have to move the crank more than once mark the crank pulley with chalk so you can return to those positions that are just right.

3. Tie some dental floss onto the cotter keys when removing or installing.

4. If the rod cap or the dippers (if installing) want to fall of while you attempting to put the cap nuts on, use a little grease to hold them temporarily.

5.I was also installing new pistons. I found in much easier to adjust the bearing clearance with the #4 piston off, and then install the piston and rod.

6. If you arn't using a creeper with a headrest, get something to rest your head on or you will have a neckache you won't believe. (I used a small box with a tower wrapped around it.)

7. A set of those peel away shims would have made life much easier!

8. Make sure the nuts go on the cap screws easily. Much easier to run them down with your finger than work in that confined area with a ratchet wrench.

9. If the caps have to be filed down, a belt sander does a wonderful job. Mine has a wheel on the side with fine sandpaper on it. It kept the caps square and you can do a very precise job of removing metal a thousandth at a time.

Well that's what I learned ...anyone else have a tip to contribute ?

schuh


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Garrison on Monday, November 26, 2012 - 08:23 pm:

Just one tip; buy your buddy a case of beer and tell him he can have it after completing the job. If necessary introduce him to your sister. But make sure he's got a substantial set of tools. Don't feed him or he'll never go home.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Tomaso - Milton,WA on Monday, November 26, 2012 - 08:23 pm:

I do # 4 first while I am fresh !


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Gruber- Spanaway, Wash. on Monday, November 26, 2012 - 08:24 pm:

I always do #4 first.
That makes the other three much easier.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Gruber- Spanaway, Wash. on Monday, November 26, 2012 - 08:26 pm:

Hi Steve!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Doug Money - Braidwood, IL on Monday, November 26, 2012 - 09:20 pm:

Bud, you put in new pistons, but ground the rod faces? Are you out of shims? If so, why not replace or repour the rods at the same time? Just curious.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Monday, November 26, 2012 - 09:56 pm:

I've adjusted the mains in my 15 several times over the past three rebuilds. No problem, you just need to put the rod at 3:00 or 9:00.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dean Yoder on Tuesday, November 27, 2012 - 05:08 am:

Bud,
Don't forget to remove the rags. It makes a mess.
I now tie a string to the rags.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kerry van Ekeren (Australia) on Tuesday, November 27, 2012 - 06:37 am:

Royce, how many miles are you doing to be on your 3rd rebuild?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Tuesday, November 27, 2012 - 09:34 am:

Kerry,

I don't know, the speedometer didn't go on the car until 2001. The car has been in our family since about 1968. Three rebuilds over the last 40 + years. Lots of tours, and lots of local driving. The most recent rebuild came early because the Chinese pistons were defective and noisy. No doubt the engine got rebuilt several times before our family owned it too.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Tuesday, November 27, 2012 - 11:26 am:

I wish someone would make laminated shims in .001 thickness's. I have to make my own, and it's a bear. Those .003" peel away shims just don't give an accurate fit.


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