Starter switch problem

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Starter switch problem
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Enos Wiseman on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 05:00 pm:

I had a problem with my starter switch. I'm a newby and still waiting for my repair manual to arrive but decided to have a look and try to fix it. I removed the switch and one of the brass bolts had to be replaced. I took it apart and went to a shop and was able to find one almost identical. Put it all together and now I'm not getting anything. I would think the positive would go to the non grounded one and negative to the other.I don't want to order a new switch if it's not the problem. Is there a way to bypass the switch just to see before ordering one.
Thanks


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Daron - Brownsburg IN on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 05:10 pm:

Both of the brass terminals are insulated on the starter switch. If yours aren't you are creating a dead short and that can be serious. All that switch does is interrupt current to the starter.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter Claverie on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 05:22 pm:

First, I assume you're talking about the switch you mash with your heel. It has two large copper terminals on the bottom. One holds the end of the cable from the + side of the battery, and the other holds the end of the cable to the starter and also a smaller wire that goes to the terminal block on the firewall.

Do I have the right switch?

If so, these switches carry an enormous in-rush of current to the starter, and over time the internal contacts tend to get pitted and burned by the sparks that are generated, mostly by interrupting the circuit while large amperage is flowing, when you let up on the button.

You have several options.

One is to disassemble the switch and clean and polish the contacts and make sure everything is working correctly mechanically.

Second, you can buy a replacement switch. The re-pop switches available over the past several years have something of a bad reputation, of being too light-weight.

Third, you can install a starter solenoid to handle the large current, and use the original floor switch to simply activate the solenoid. It's easier than it sounds, and not particularly expensive - the solenoids cost under 20 bucks.

But, back to your original question: If I have fairly described the switch you have, neither terminal should be grounded. Both should be insulated from the case. If this is not the situation, you've got a different set of problems.

Let us know what you find as you investigate, and we'll be happy to help.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Eubanks, Powell, TN on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 05:25 pm:

The worst thing that happens on a T with starting is not a good ground. Take the ground cable loose from the frame and file the area it attaches to and also file all your cable ends where they attach. Jack is right about the insulation in that switch and while you are checking it, make sure the contacts on the plunger are aimed right. A T will start very well on 6v if the cables are heavy 6V and all connections are good


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Enos Wiseman on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 05:43 pm:

Thanks:
Glad I asked. When I took it apart from what I could see I thought one had the washer to prevent it from grounding but i'll have to take it apart again and get some more washers to prevent the other from grounding as well.
Thanks for your help.
I'll also look at the starter solenoid.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Daron - Brownsburg IN on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 05:48 pm:

Fiber washers for a faucet make good insulators.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Enos Wiseman on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 06:00 pm:

Thanks
I have a few of those around.
Glad I came to the forum. Great helpers or I should say Leaders.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Willie K Cordes on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 06:32 pm:

TSC (Tractor Supply Company) handles some push switches that are similar to the ones used on a T. I have used one that is listed for a Farmall M tractor. It is plenty heavy, but you will have to modify the mounting and make sure you do not ground the post.
If you are a purist, ignore my posting.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 06:43 pm:

All the sparks and smoke must have stayed inside the switch. :-) You're lucky the switch bar didn't weld itself to the studs. That could have been a disaster of a fire department magnitude.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 06:50 pm:

Simply use a jumper of some sort to go from one terminal to another.
If the starter turns over you have a simple fix to do in the switch or to get another.
If not maybe the cable that goes to ground is not grounding on the frame where its bolted.
Use a pair of pliers to jump the switch is the fastest way to jump it just to see if your getting fire. Its probably something simple.
If you have the original cables check to see if they are good.
Those old original cables may look "good" but may not be.
They can fool you.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Aldrich Orting Wa on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 07:04 pm:

Another possibility is the switch is good but the starter fried.

Sorry. Mr Doom and Gloom here.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Enos Wiseman on Thursday, November 29, 2012 - 08:59 pm:

All is well:
The new stud I put in works fine now that it's done right. One was grounding but after taking it apart and putting spacers in it works like it's suppose to. It's good to know I can use one from a tractor if it dies. Thanks for the help.


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