I have ground the valve seats and lapped the valves. New springs all in the 26/28 lb range.
I must be valve spring impaired because I can't figure out how to install the new valves. Its difficult just to get the springs installed over the upper valve guide boss and the lower tappet boss....much less compress them so I can put the cupped washers and pins in.
I have and old valve spring compressor of the type shown below:
I also found this pic on the forum on how to use it:
Problem is there just no way to insert the tool as shown - you'd have to be superman to lift the spring enough to insert the tool .... the spring pressures too great.
Suggestions? Hints? Tips?
BTW I have access to a modern spring compressor loaner from the local auto parts store - if that would make it easier.
Thanks in advance
schuh
Bud,
The spring compressor shown in the repair manual, from memory, hooks over the intake stud and has only one end to slip under the spring. Don't know if this would help, but might if you don't have to fit both ends. See http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/454 for the commercial version, but an old open-end wrench and piece of wire has been used.
Neil
Bud,
I just finished doing the valves on my '14. Used a similar spring compressor with no problem and I too checked the new springs for proper compression. Yes, it can be a bugger getting the retainers over the end of the valve stem but not too bad. Lemme know if you need a hand or want to borrow the tool.
Ted M.
Ted
Did you put the springs between the two bosses first and then try to jam the tool between the lower boss and the spring?
Did you put the washers on first or after you compressed the spring?
Thanks
Interesting that in the block shown in Bud's photo that the camshaft is exposed. Didn't know camshafts were exposed to the outside on Model T Ford engines. Maybe the photo is not of a Model T Ford engine.
Inspection covers are off?
I have one just exactly like that.I bent the bottom fork at a 90 degree angle so it rest on the bottom of the oil chamber and just uses top fork to lift the spring. That way it will lock in the open position. I put the washer on and slide the spring in place first. I don't remember them being quite that strong.
The engine shown is a cut-away display.
My favorite type is pictured here.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bruckzone/6427347313/in/set-72157628213067397/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bruckzone/6427343229/in/set-72157628213067397/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bruckzone/6427351263/in/set-72157628213067397/
It presses against the lower valve chamber galley lip. I have found doing valve spring work on the T little trouble but the hands and back are always sore by the end of the job.
With the head off it is very easy to just use a modern valve spring compressor like you would use on a Chevvy head or OHV Ford head.
Bud,
I put the keeper (original style) on bottom of spring, pushed the upper part of the spring up against the upper "boss", then with me very own hands, pushed the keeper up an over the top of the lifter. Easy to compress. Then moved on to the fun part of compressing the spring with the tool and trying to fish the keeper over the end of the valve stem. Once she found the hole, twas easy compressing the spring fully and slipping in the keeper pin. Good luck! TM
forgot to mention, put the spring in BEFORE you install the valve in the valve guide. Should be obvious but... Pop the valve in after you've got the keeper sitting on top of the lifter. BTW, helps if the lifter is all the way down. Spin the crank to get it down.
Ted
That's what I was looking for! I'll give it a try this morning.
We need to get together, I'm sure both our T's have changed a lot since we last visited!
Cheers
Heres some of my valvespring compressor collection----seems like several work much better then others----Paul
WHOOPS----sorry, wrong photo (but THIS might be a better solution....) Paul
try this
Yes, very much easier to work the springs/keepers with the head off and the valve out. Just for fun, another image of a different type (pictured above) in use.
Inserted... http://www.flickr.com/photos/bruckzone/4384142660/in/set-72157623171821285
Expanded.... http://www.flickr.com/photos/bruckzone/4383381277/in/set-72157623171821285/
I use a Briggs & Stratton valve spring compresser #19063. Under 20 dollars.
I also tried the briggs spring tool but found it not strong enough and had trouble with the arms spreading and loosing the grip. If it is all you have, it can be made to work.
Thanks all for your help.
Paul: I think the first picture you posted might have reduced the stress of installing valve springs. What's the story behind the prescription? Is it real? Very interesting.
The solution proved to be simple. The old tool I had purchased had the lower fork slightly bent so it wouldn't fit around the tappet boss. A little heat and a little bending fixed that. The upper fork now slips easily under the keeper and with the handles squeezed gives plenty of room to install the pin.
Hey Bud-----Sorry for the mispost--That "prescription" is a real one "issued under authority of The National Prohibition Act" Glad to hear you were able to get your valves installed. Use my "prescription" for some celebration! Paul