Ha Ha No jokes about on the exhaust pipe. I am wondering where you cut the exhaust pipe to install a whistle? Does it really matter? How far from the muffler? Pictures anyone?
As close to the manifold as you can. That header has a slip fit to the muffler so you will not get leaks under the passenger seat.
Is it a train type whistle. The best type of valve for that is one that inserts into a slot cut into the side of the exhaust pipe and not only opens the path to the whistle but blocks the normal path of the exhaust at the same time. I am speaking of an Aermore (sp?) whistle.
I put mine just in front of the muffler but you need to ensure that there is room for your whistle in the area where you install it. Mine came very close to the radius rod. So I wound up just cutting the exhaust pipe at the muffler end,
I started up this road but decided better. You can see by the tracks that I had a hard time backing up. This is another place that the foot feed would help.
That ended up in the wrong post!
I thought it fit in perfectly! But, then, I don't like exhaust whistles. Or explosion whistles. Or wolf whistles.
But I do love a good klaxon type horn!
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Nice ad, Dan - don't believe I've ever seen an Aermore mounted in that position. Seems as though from that location, it would "warn" the occupants of the car as much as any pedestrian or other motorists !
Dave, John Reagan mentions the better type of mounting. Thee is no need to cut the pipe when fitting this and so the exhaust is much more robust. I have mounted 3 Aermores this way, all with the trumpets pointing backwards and as far forward in the pipe as I can comfortably fit them.
My chocolate van has one I call my neck breaker. When driving up city streets, a sustained blast under throttle will make the sidewalk coffee drinkers whip around to see where the train is coming from!
Just for laughs.
Allan from downunder.
If you want a real big exhaust horn, you need the real big Six-Cylinder Ford
Allen and John--please elaborate. What type of valve are you talking about? Is it a vendor item?
My exhaust whistle has a valve that opens up the passage to the whistle while closing off the passage to the muffler, thus assuring that all the exhaust goes to the whistle. That means that the whistle can be placed anywhere along the exhaust pipe. Where ever it fits best.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the currently made valve requires cutting the exhaust pipe and then each end of the cut pipe enters each end of the valve assembly. Decades ago, when the Aermores were being reproduced by another company, the valve they made and sold, was the valve described where a 1 and a half inch long slit was cut into the pipe, running lengthwise with the pipe. The valve body had a rounded shape to contour to the T exhaust pipe and after a asbestos gasket was sandwiched between the pipe and the valve body, the valve body was clamped in place with muffler clamps. The valve had a flapper valve that, when open to allow for normal operation, was positioned inside the exhaust pipe, parallel to the pipe. When the kick pedal pulled the valve shaft 90 degrees from parallel, the flapper valve was perpendicular to the pipe, which blocked off the T exhaust pipe and forced the exhaust to enter the Aermore. I have one of these valves and whistles that I bought back in the 70's, but don't have a photo of it to post. They come up every now and then on Ebay.
John, one of mine is an original, the others I made. Picture a 5"piece of exhaust pipe that is a slide fit over the T pipe. Cut it in halves lengthwise. One of these pieces is used to clamp to the pipe.
Next you will need an m&f pipe bend into which the Aermore will thread, and another fitting into which the male end of the bend will screw. This second fitting can be cut/shaped to the curve of the half pipe piece. At about 1.5" from one end of the pipe piece, drill a hole at least the size of the bore of this fitting, and weld the fitting over the hole. Now you will have the basis to fit the whistle to the pipe.
The diversion valve is next. You need a disc almost the diameter of the inside of the exhaust pipe. Cut a slot in one end of a piece of 1/4" rod so the disc will slide into it and then weld the disc in place, like a carb throttle shaft.
Screw the elbow into the welded on fitting, just forward of the threaded section and drill a 1/4" hole through both sides of the elbow and the tube section. You should now be able to drop the 1/4" rod and disc down through the hole. This is your diversion valve.Once in place you will need to bend the rod 90 degrees to make a lever to hook on to. The plane of this bend in relation to the plane of the disc will depend on how you hook up the lever to a pedal or some such.
Fitting the device to the pipe requires a hole the same size as the hole in the fitting. I drill mine with a hole saw. Then you need 1/4" a slot at the back of the hole just long enough to be able to slide the disc shaft back far enough so the large holes line up.
Two stainless worm drive hose clamps are used to secure it, and I use muffler putty as a sealant between the pipe and the unit.
This whole thing operates as Terry indicates above. One of mine has an inbuilt return spring around the shaft, but I could not begin to describe how it is fitted/works.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under,
Don't let Rob have a horn like that for his Model K. Everyone in the country will know the whereabouts of Nebraska if he gets his hands on one of those.
They work well on flathead V8's, too, unless you're running Smithy mufflers!
Actually I've been watching this thread because a big exhaust whistle would go well with the K.
I've not seen that K photo before.