We took apart a 26-7 complete rear end, all apart EXCEPT cannot get right side housing to come off, have stood on end on a oak block, and sledge hammered, have put on the nut and sledge hammered, but it won't move, guess I need to tear another one down to get parts. Trying to build speedster for 14 1/2 yr old grandson. it has the outer bearing out, spent 4 hrs today getting old oil out, used flashlight can't see a problem. Any ideas?
I would think you would soak it for a few days 50/50 acetone/transfluid ???? Heat, melt old sludge ???
Some obvious questions: Did you pull the outside bearing out with a hook before trying to take the housing off? How about the sleeve? Inner oil seal? Is the axle turning inside the housing? Have you tried removing the housing while turning the axle? The sledge hammer is going to break something. The bearing(s) must be really tight or gummed up solid. Have you tried some heat to soften up the gum? A real obvious question: have you completely removed the drive shaft and pinion gear?
Build a big fire and throw it in the middle. Once fire dies down,it will come apart. It won't hurt much.
I went back to my friends shop this a.m. and he had it off, don't know how? tore apart the rear end, and another one, now to find some good used axles, and clean up tommorrow and send housings out to be cleaned in a cooker to degrease, and blast, maybe yet I might learn mechanic's
John, I have taken probably over fifty axles apart and have found only a couple used axle shafts that were good enough to re-use.
You need to have all of the following:
1- Inner bearing journal needs to be good, clean, smooth, round, and even to within maybe .002", but ideally zero variance.
2- Outer bearing journal needs to be good, clean, smooth, round, and even to within maybe .002", but ideally zero variance.
3- Shaft has to be straight
4- Taper for hub has to be correct, not worn from a loose hub.
5- Key way should be even and key should fit tight. The only way the key way could be worn or enlarged would be from a loose hub working back and forth on the taper. Even if the taper looks good, a wallowed out keyway (even if it is very slight) is an indication the hub was loose on the shaft for an extended time and the shaft very likely has been work hardened and your chances of a broken axle shaft at some point down the road are significantly higher. Generally speaking, axles that have broken off just at or very near the inside of the hub are usually the result of this defect.
6- The threads for the hub nut must be in excellent condition and must be good enough to withstand a nut being torqued to 100 ft/lbs
7- The axle must not have any grooves from oil seals, not even light ones. Particularly on 1926-1927 rear axles, the leather and spring steel inner seal that was used oftentimes chewed into the axle and made a little groove. This groove is a spot where axle shafts work harden, begin cracking and break off. If an axle shaft has this little groove, the chances of the axle breaking there at a later date are fairly significant. Even if you polish it out, it has been run that way for an extended period for at some point in its past, and the internal damage may already be done. Axles that break at the inside of the outer bearing are usually due to this particular defect. Axle shafts are hardened, but usually only to about 1/32" below the surface.
New axle shafts are not as hard as original Ford axle shafts which mean the journals generally will not last as long, but theoretically are a bit more resistant to breakage. New axle shafts are variable in quality and there are at least three vendors making them right now. Check them carefully before use. I have found combinations of the following defects:
- Not straight
- Journals too rough (lathe turning marks on shafts that were finished with a fine feed on a lathe and not finish ground.
- Diameter on gear end to large to properly start pressing gear onto
- Key ways at gear area project keys into bearing journal when gears are installed (have to dress ends of keys down).
- Key ways at hub not deep enough (when you install the hub, it is not seating on the taper, only on the top of the key and a hair-line area on the taper 180 degrees from the key.
- Taper for hub not in line outer journal area (effectively causing a slight "wobble" with a hub installed).
- Sharp inside corners cut at ends of journal area instead of smooth radiuses (a potential spot for a crack to start unless it is dressed down to a smooth radius before installation.
Just some things to keep in mind...