I bought a 1927 Fordor. It will not start if the rear wheels are on the ground. It runs and starts great if the rear wheels are off of the ground. If I put the brake on, the engine will stop. If I pull or push the brake lever forward or backward the engine dies. What am I doing wrong? What do I need to do?
If I were in Loveland and having a Model T problem of any kind, I'd call Dave Huson in Berthoud and ask his advice...
Sounds like the transmission has a stuck set of clutch plates in it. First question, how long was it stored or just sitting idle when you bought it? They might break free if you just keep messing with it. If not #1 change the oil. #2 pull the plugs. #3 pull the emergency lever back almost all the way. Far enough to activate the clutch levers but not far enough to activate the rear brakes. #4 hook a tow strap to the frame or the front bumper brackets, (if it has one) NOT the front axle.
#5 VERY GENTLY try to pull the car forward with another vehicle.
I'm sure others will chime in here with suggestions that might be simpler than that. I'm ex-Air Force, C-130's Viet Nam.
Daniel, welcome to the affliction. In case you haven't seen them before, here are a couple of links for the new T owner:
http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html
http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG79.html.
You sound a wee bit confused (Though I agree with Dennis. It could be a locked clutch). Do this if you're very new: Move the hand brake lever fully forward & backward and watch the left pedal as you do. It should move from a fully up position to a half way down position. If it doesn't move a piece of linkage may have fallen off or broke. If movement of the pedal is slight the "free neutral" adjustment is wrong.I don't have the diagram/procedure handy. Maybe some one else can post it. It can be other things besides a locked clutch and they should be checked first. The car may have been "parked" for this problem in the first place but it could be something easier like an adjustment or a missing cotter pin too. fresh oil is never a problem either.
I'll add this because you're new:
Normal operation:
hand brake fully back (rearward): the rear wheels are locked by the emergency brakes. The left pedal is half way down. The car is in neutral. The engine is free to turn.
hand brake half way off (straight up): The car is still in neutral. The pedal is still halfway down but the emerg. brakes are off. It's free to roll. The eng. is free to turn.
hand brake fully forward: The car is in high gear. the eng. is connected to the rear wheels and the pedal is fully up.
Yet another PS: Keep the rear wheels off the ground when doing this stuff until you're sure it's correct. These buggers like to walk around on their own a bit. Could result in needing a new garage door.
Thank you guys, I sure appreciate your help. I believe the chassis sat out in the open for quite a few years. I cleaned it up and adjusted the rod clearance to .002 by removing shims. I would bet it is the clutch plates and will try to break them loose. Will put in new clutch kit if I can't break it loose. Thank you guys.
Dan C. USAF, Ret. Loveland, Colorado
Daniel it might not be the clutch plates, my T sat for 69 years and the clutch plates weren't stuck. The hand lever was left in the forward position all that time. In your case it could be as easy as an adjustment. USMC 2000-2005 OEF