Cleaning up or restoring champion X

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Cleaning up or restoring champion X
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rob from Nova Scotia on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 12:17 pm:

Just bought a half dozen original plugs, and I was wondering if anyone had thoghts/pictures etc on how to take them apart, clean them up and put them back together properly? I remember seeing a few threads on these, but cant seem to find them


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Gould on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 12:48 pm:

Couple thoughts. I wouln't wire brush the porcelains with a wire wheel again, it leaves marks that are permanent. Also I wouldn't use the instant bluing compound as they start to rust almost immediately. You can get the copper washers from Restoration Supply or others on line. Thats about it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erich Bruckner, Vancouver, WA on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 01:02 pm:

First, take the medical ideal of "do no harm" into mind before you take them apart. Use a good penitrant like Kroil or others. Use a bench vise to hold the small lock ring (but don't distort it). Use a well fitting wrench on the main body of the plug. We don't wish to mar the steel or fracture the porcelain. Getting them apart is the hard part. Cleaning up the parts is easy. Use a wire wheel on the steel bits (good grip important), never on the porcelain. Use a gentle product such as "Bar keepers friend" on the ceramic bits. I like to treat the steel with a dose of gun cold blue to make it look nice and protect from rust. Various styles of copper seals have been used over the years. They should fit well and be one above the center shoulder and one below such that the steel parts compress on the copper to seal. Don't want the steel to press directly on the ceramic.

This is a basic intro and many folks have further details. Here is a basic photo...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bruckzone/4564511065/in/set-72157623836459429

Others have shots that have been posted here before.

There are some variations in these plugs depending on vintage.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erich Bruckner, Vancouver, WA on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 01:07 pm:

Read the instructions on the cold blue products such as from birchwood casey or others. The process must be done as instructed to get results that look nice. It is easy and good results can be had. Any kind of paint leads to problems unless they will be used for display only.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erich Bruckner, Vancouver, WA on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 01:10 pm:

Good info here on this previous post.


http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/219956.html?1309070279


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Doug Money - Braidwood, IL on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 09:37 pm:

I have heard that Efferdent works on the porcelains. Since I don't use it yet, I cannot comment on it firsthand. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 09:50 pm:

Denture cleaner foaming tablets are good for porcelain, if your fake teeth can get clean with it, so can your Ford parts :-)




Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 11:09 pm:

You can clean a Champion X plug with your pocket knife. Nothing sophisticated is required.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Thursday, December 06, 2012 - 08:50 am:

I clean the porcelains with scotchbrite and isopropyl alcohol. A steel tool might scratch the porcelain, making a good place for a carbon track.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rob from Nova Scotia on Thursday, December 06, 2012 - 10:45 am:

Thanks guys, I'm looking forward to getting these and seeing how much of a difference it makes. I have been running the F11 since I built it


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rob from Nova Scotia on Wednesday, December 12, 2012 - 08:25 am:

another question related to this, I see cores for the Champion X on Tbay, are these an option, or are good used ones common enough to not waste the time and money?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Wednesday, December 12, 2012 - 10:18 am:


Which part is the core? 3? 5?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Wednesday, December 12, 2012 - 11:00 am:

Everything except part #1 is in the core box, plus two copper gaskets and the asbestos string that goes between the bottom gasket and the porcelain.


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