Ready to put the head back on

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Ready to put the head back on
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bud Holzschuh - Panama City, FL on Thursday, December 06, 2012 - 11:19 pm:

After some fairly major engine work, I'm ready to put the head back on.

Is there any problem with using some copper based never sieze on the head bolts?

Is it needed ?

Thanks
schuh


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Thursday, December 06, 2012 - 11:35 pm:

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/232761.html?1314825342


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Paul Mikeska, Denver CO on Thursday, December 06, 2012 - 11:36 pm:

I like nickel anti-sieze better but yes you should use some form of anti-sieze lubricant on the head bolts. Also any type of lubricant used on the head bolts will lower the amount of torque needed on the bolts.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bud Holzschuh - Panama City, FL on Friday, December 07, 2012 - 12:01 am:

Right now I'm thinking 35 ft*lbs and neversieze.

Steve: your reference was interesting but with so many differing comments, what value did you wind up using?

schuh


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Garrison on Friday, December 07, 2012 - 12:18 am:

I've put the heads back on three engines in the last year. I put anti-seize on the threads and after cleaning and rechasing the threads in the block and blowing the holes out tourqued the head at 50lb/ft then took the vehicle for a ride down the road and back and retorqued at 50lb/ft. Ran them both all last summer without a problem.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Friday, December 07, 2012 - 07:00 am:

Depends on the year the block was made. I would not torque head bolts on a pre - 1918 block more than 45 lb - ft with clean dry threads. If you insist on using a lubricant you would reduce the torque spec by 5 lbs.

Personally I use KW Copper Coat on the bolts. I use Krylon Flat Silver enamel on both sides of the head gasket with the head gasket hanging on a wire. Let the paint get tacky, nearly dry, then assemble the gasket to the perfectly dry and degreased engine. Re=torque the head bolts once, and once only after warming the engine to operating temperature and allowing it to cool completely prior to torqueing.

Do this and you will never have even a seep of coolant into a bolt hole.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bud Holzschuh - Panama City, FL on Friday, December 07, 2012 - 09:47 am:

Good suggestions Royce. Thanks.

schuh


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By keith g barrier on Friday, December 07, 2012 - 10:03 am:

Permatex makes a product called high tack that I have used for 20 years, spray on each side and let dry 30 minutes, be careful not to touch with your fingers as it will always remain stickey. I have had execellant results with this on ALL type engines or I would not recommend it. I only use a little lite oil on the threads, to much and it will pool in the bottom of the bolt hole and you wont be able to fully seat the bolt account of hydrolic pressure.


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