The head light rim vibrates loose and falls off. Suggestions to make the rim secure?
Sometimes the tabs on the inside of the rim get bent. Also you can bend the ones on the headlight itself to make them fit a little more secure.
Be careful when you make the adjustments so you wont break them off.
Fit the rope gasket (thick rope) into the reflector. Be sure you have good spring in the groove of the headlamp shell, with the 'fingers' of that spring pointing out. Then fit the reflector against the spring, rotating the lock ends against the lock ridge of the head lamp bucket.
Be sure the glass lens is tight in the rim, and that the rim has full height rivet ends to align and hold the glass and rim firm against the rope seal, while the reflector is being pushed out against the glass, rotate the lens in lock position, buy pushing in and turning. That rim should then, 'pop' out slightly, indicating the spring against the reflector is holding the rim firm.
Gentlemen: thank you.
Some repro headlight rims were made with those attachment point pins way to small.
Some of the repops were also made with aluminum rivets. A little constant vibration and the bucket would saw right through them.
I have the other problem...can't get the rim off!
Hope the bulb does'nt blow.
I have the same problem on a '26 hack. We've tried lubricants, and Ford rim wrenches made per one of the Ford Bulletins. NOTHING seems to work. We can push it in but it doesn't turn. My suspicion is that 2 things have happened. These were NOS rims and had brass rivets. When I put these together, the proper size rope gaskets weren't available. Wife had some very thick yarn wound like rope. Tight fit but we got the rims on.
What I suspect has happened is that the brass rivets have so much tension on them from the yarn that they've slotted themselves into the bucket and are simply pulling the thin piece of metal at the front of the slots along with them so they're staying locked to the bucket. Could also be some corrosion between the yarn and the rim.
I suspect that I'll end up grinding/drilling some of the rivets out to relieve the tension, then find a way to install fresh rivets and get everything replated.
Peter Morland and Warren Mortensen:
Harbor Freight sell a puller with a rubber strap That tightens inside the handle. You can pull ANY electric headlight rim that Ford ever made for the Ts. You can also use it to reinstall the rim.
From the Ford Service Belletin May 15th. 1920. Regards, John
That should have read Ford Service Bulletin
The absolute best tool for removing the bezel, after a soak, is a large filter strap wrench. I have one used for larger diesel filters and it's perfect for this. Works great on pool filter cap & covers too.
I'm with Dave Huson...That cheapo Harbor Freight strap wrench did the trick for me after EVERYTHING else failed. The strong rubber strap and composite handle can't mar the rings. Very useful for delicate stuck parts. It's one time, 'cheap is good'.
ON SALE THIS WEEK: 2 WRENCHES FOR $4.99
PS. As an oil filter wrench for a stuck filter, they probably suck.
I have one of those tools you talk about.
Nice tool to have when you need it.
Oil filter wrenches are also handy for opening jars of kimchi.