Rear Spring Settings

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Rear Spring Settings
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Page on Monday, December 10, 2012 - 11:20 pm:

Hello everyone. I have a friend who is having his rear spring reset and is wondering if anyone can help with the correct settings ( specifications etc.) It is for a 1917-1918 Coupe. I have looked through a lot of my books and can't find anything that would be helpful.

Regards, John


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Page on Tuesday, December 11, 2012 - 02:21 am:

Perhaps I need to be a bit more specific. Does anyone have the measurements eye to eye and floor to top of arch measurements. This would be off the car and in the relaxed position.
Any help would be very welcome. Regards, john


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Tuesday, December 11, 2012 - 09:41 am:

John: I have an original spring I restored a while back for my '13 roadster. If you want, I'll check the measurements on it. But why don't you just put it together? You know you are going to use it anyway. I assume it is a taper leaf.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Page on Tuesday, December 11, 2012 - 03:57 pm:

Larry,

I posted this thread for a friend who is having his rear spring reset at a professional spring business and they want to know the settings. It is a tapered leaf spring. I have never had to deal with this problem before as I have always had good springs to work with. Thank you for any help or advice.

Best regards, John


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Thode Chehalis Washington on Tuesday, December 11, 2012 - 04:20 pm:

I wonder if there are any specs. If there is, are they different for each model/weight of vehicle? How many people will be riding in the car? What do they weigh? How many tools or how much cargo will be carried?

My suggestion would be to install the spring and look at it with and without load and go from there. It is sets too low, add a "little" arch and if it looks good, run it.

In the end, it is what ever works. I can't see how one specification would work in all cases.

Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Page on Tuesday, December 11, 2012 - 05:16 pm:

Jim,

Thank you for your input. On the later Sedans, Coupes, and I think Pickups Ford added extra leaves. Thank you once again Jim, you always something valuable to contribute.

Regards, John


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Tuesday, December 11, 2012 - 05:47 pm:

John, your friend may be chasing his tail here. I had my 1917 shooting brake rear spring reset at Industrial Springs in Adelaide. They said they had specs for same. However, when re-fitted, there was bugger all difference in the ride height. Next time I will follow Jim's advice, fit, measure and then re-arch to suit. Its a bit of messing around, but the car is the only real datum line you have to work from.

Hope this helps.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Page on Tuesday, December 11, 2012 - 06:12 pm:

Thanks Allan. I am not sure what condition the springs are in , having not sited them. If they were mine and they looked in good order I would do the same. Thanks again. Best regards, John


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Tuesday, December 11, 2012 - 08:47 pm:

If you want to pay, get the drawings from Benson Ford Research Library at the Henry Ford. That way you have the Ford specs.

Or, if really worried about the old ones, get new taper leaf springs, claimed to be made to patterns of old.

http://www.t-springs.com/history.html


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Tuesday, December 11, 2012 - 09:23 pm:

Is the spring original to the car that is being restored? Is it really so tired that it needs to be re-arched?

Here are four photos I just took of a nice fully tapered rear spring - it is dated/stamped 1916. (The rust is minor surface rust - it's a really nice spring that I bead blasted years ago but never bothered to prime.)

First two photos show width - measurements are taken from outside edge to outside edge of the eyelet.

Second two photos show height - I propped the spring up on the level floor and measured from the floor to the top of the spring.

If the spring in question is close to these measurements, you are probably okay.

1

2

3

4


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Tuesday, December 11, 2012 - 10:58 pm:

Dan, I think the problem is the springs no longer have the same tension. Mine were set up to specs but seem to be softer and not able to carrt the same load. The only way I can see around this is to fit the spring, measure the ride height, jack the car to the desired ride height and then have the spring re-arched to suit. That way we are compensating for a relaxed spring.

That is a job for autumn. I need the increased ride height to allow me to carry a full load of passengers in my shooting brake.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Page on Tuesday, December 11, 2012 - 11:09 pm:

I would like to thank everyone who have contributed here . It has given my friend enough information for him to make an informed decision regarding the spring. He would like me to pass on his thanks also. Best regards, John


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Tuesday, December 11, 2012 - 11:24 pm:

Allan

Understand. I got lucky and found a nearly NOS later spring, with 9 leaf, for sedans. That was the choice for the Autowa touring.

Will be touring with friends in the back seat. Today's adults aren't like the adults in the 20's :-)

Have driven a larger couple riding in the rear for a short ride, and works fine, can hardly see the back end drop any.







Lots of rear fender clearance :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Wednesday, December 12, 2012 - 12:31 pm:

My take on all this is why bother? I have never ridden in a T, where the rear spring didn't almost throw you out of the car when going over railroad tracks. I've got 9 leafs in my two '25 roadster pickups, and when I go over railroad tracks I really have to hold on to the steering wheel. Maybe I should learn to drive slower!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Wednesday, December 12, 2012 - 12:41 pm:

Larry

Maybe you install Pancakes...they really work. :-)

Just put back on the rear ones on the '24 touring last week. Toured with the T for the last 3 years without 'em, and missed the nice rear gentle rolling bounce when going over railroad tracks.










Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Wednesday, December 12, 2012 - 06:17 pm:

Larry, on my shooting brake, the extended wheelbase, longer rear overhang and the ability to carry 6 passengers in the back means I need to bother!With three up I can already bottom the spring on the diff tubes.

That's what you get when you move away from a standard T set-up.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Wolf on Wednesday, December 12, 2012 - 06:25 pm:

Dan;
Looks like you went to Harbor Freight. Jack and jack stands. Was there today.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Warwick Landy on Thursday, December 13, 2012 - 05:19 am:

John,
a number of our MTFCV members have had springs reset by a spring works in Morabbin, Victoria who claim to have original specs for t Springs?? My fordor was saggy in the rear end so I had the spring reset by them and now it sits and rides very nicely with a full load in the back.
I will try to get thier details for you.
Warwick.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter Kable on Thursday, December 13, 2012 - 06:16 am:

John,
I have the setting for all the springs, from a spring manufacturer who lists several variations depending on the Model T. I hadn't looked at your posting before I will get them to you in the morning.

I will need the number of leaves and I presume its a touring if not let me know as the different body styles have different settings


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter Kable on Thursday, December 13, 2012 - 06:30 am:

John, just noticed its for a Coupe !!!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter Kable on Thursday, December 13, 2012 - 07:00 am:

John,
Here they are, Only 3 version are listed for rear springs for cars.

1915 -25 - c.c distance main leaf for 8 leaf 43 3/8" -43 5/8"

1915 -25 - c.c distance main leaf for 9 leaf
41 7/16 - 41 9/16" there is a note attached - (This is the one to reset)

1926-27 Sedan and Delivery (ute)c.c distance 9 leaf 41 11/16" to 41 15/16"

I used the last one on the Kamper it can hold 6 adults without bottoming.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Page on Thursday, December 13, 2012 - 02:13 pm:

Hello Peter,

I am not sure if my friend is still following this thread. I will check on that. Thank you for your help. Regards, John


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