Is there any one making thread chaser for this or what is the threads that was used.
Would like to use old caps with patena,that need adjusting.
I believe one of the suppliers sells a die.
If you have a lathe, you can chase the threads on that.
You could also use a thread chasing file.
There was an article in one of latest magazines, perhaps MTFCI or HCCA that showed how to fix threads for hub caps. One trick to pound out dents in the caps was to use a bolt with the same threads per inch and grind off half of it along the length. Put the bolt on the inside treads of the dented section and hammer on the ground surface. Back up the cap with a leather sand bag, used for metal working. The article recommended a thread file for the hub threads. It also recommended a grinding compound like Time Saver.
Glad Bob asked this question. I also have a front hub that the threads are just off enough that I can't get a brand new cap on. I was hoping someone had a better way to freshen the threads since I don't need to pound out the new cap. Maybe using a file will do the job but as you all know the threads are very small.
I have a tool that clamps around the outside of the hub.
You put it in close to the wheel where the threads are still good and tighten it down and then unscrew it. It will chase the threads as you turn it toward you and off the hub..
I think it cost 112 green folding things when I bought it about 20 years ago.
The thread cutters for the T hub are the finest ones that come with the tool.
It works on outside threaded bolts & hubs & things that are 1 1/4" to 5 inches in diameter.
Everyone should own two four-sided thread files.
That gives you four on each end or eight total thread sizes per file.
The two files give you 16 possible thread-per inch sizes.
A good thread file should do the job with plenty of patience.
Here is the chaser I have. See the video.
It would work better if he didn't try to turn it the wrong way.
Can you tell me what the thread size is, I'm more interested in something for the inside of the hub cap. I like that tool you have but my hub caps are what I need to repair and make round.
For Aaron or anyone else with OTC or similar style chaser.
Here are a couple of mods that I made to save some wear and tear on mine.
The first (idea stolen from the Snap-On version) is an aluminum wear plate.
The second (my brainwave) allows the chaser to be used down to 1/2" (or less).
The wear plate is fastened to the inner end of the jaw with a countersunk screw,
and I will drill and counter bore a skt head bolt thru the adapter and into the jaw.
I think there is an article about fixing hubcaps in the last HCCA mag. Dan
Doesn't one of the vendors make a knock off tool for removing wheels that also acts as a thread chaser?
Doesn't one of the vendors sell a knock off tool for removing wheels that also acts as a thread chaser ?
Yes, they sell a thread chaser for about $100. The problem I see with it is that it has to screw onto the hub from the outside end, where the threads are most likely to be damaged to the point of being unthreadable. That's why at auctions and swap meets I'm always on the lookout for a Stevens T-181, a T-era tool for the purpose. Like the tool shown in the video, you can apply it where the threads are good and turn it out onto the damaged threads. A few years ago somebody claimed here on the forum that they turn up at swap meets all the time, but so far I've never seen one.
Concerning the Stevens T - 181 tool that Steve pictured in the post above, now THAT would be a tool for someone to reproduce.
I have one of the OTC tools that Art and Aaron show in their posts above, but it's a little cumbersone to use. The threads on the OTC tool are about 1/2" wide, wider than the hub threads.
There is an excellent article on hub thread restoration in this months (Dec 12) HCCA Gazette by Gary Hoonsbeen. It shows how to make a simple clamp and how to restore the threads.
Art Bell is correct on the OTC Owatonna Co. Tool. I have used one for years on hubs and never had a problem. You have to learn how to use them. I always start way in the threads where they are good and work out past the damaged threads. I do it a couple or three times depending on how bad the damaged threads are. I start with the OTC fairly loose and then tighten the OTC each time. I end up with good straight threads and I can install a hub cap with my FINGERS all the way to the inside. If the hub cap is too bad I just get another one.
The hub cap threads are 2-1/8"-24 USF per Ford Drawings.
That's what I was looking for. Thanks to all for the interesting info. Have a great day.
I worked for OTC for close to 20 years. First as a machinist and then in Quality Assurance. I have always been impressed with them and their tools. They've always focused on special tools. For many years they manufactured the essential tool kits for all the Ford dealers in the US. I was very impressed with the design engineers, mostly because they became close personal friends. Now when I get a chance to purchase an OTC tool I buy them simply because of the nostalgia factor for me. But their tools are expensive to purchase new. As an aside, the fellow that started OTC actually started in a little bicycle shop kind of like Henry's. His first invention was a puller to pull Model T hubs. He went into production, as I recall, in 1925. I met him a couple times early in my time at OTC. He Died in the room next to mine in the Owatonna hospital in 1978. His son ran the business for about 7 years before Sealed Power Corporation. At the time Sealed Power was making piston rings. The original owners son was into vintage airplanes. He even built a museum by Owatonna for airplanes. He died sometime early in the beginning of this century or the end of the last. He was flying just outside of Owatonna in one of his antiques when him and his plane poked a little hole in the ground and he died. I'm not sure what happened to his collection of planes and cars. I believe the museum closed after his death. I enjoyed working for both the original owner Reuben Kaplan and his son Reuben "Buzz" Kaplan. Especially the old man. He would come out on the manufacturing floor and stand around and talk to people like they were his best friends. And a lot of them were.