wanna pick your brains !! got a 1915 model t, just brought it, its been stood a long while, when you go to crank it over the engine feels tight likes its half in gear, what could be wrong with this any suggestions ? qite stiff isnt like it should be, dont think i'd ever getted started like it is, i see something about the steel plates on the clutch part can get sticky so im wondering how i can get them freed do you know anything about the coil boxes, i'd like to get it started then might be able to free it off that way, one makes a noise should the other 3 make noises as you turn it over .
first of all, is it out of gear? Meaning, is it in neutral? The hand brake lever needs to be pulled back towards the front seat as far as it will come. At this point the car will turn over, but should not be able to be moved. If it does move, it won't be much.
Sometimes you can free the clutch disks by mashing all three pedals at once. You can also jack up one side of the rear wheels, and put the car in neutral. That will alleviate some of the drag.
As you turn the car over, each coil should buzz 1, 2, 4, 3.
Others will give more direction.
i will give this a go, i have jacked the back wheel up and its took some of the drag off but its still quite stiff to turn over...only one of the coils seems to buzz, ive cleaned the points etc any ideas what else to do ??
On a 1915 I assume you don't have an electric starter?
no electric starter !!
Clean out the timer.
Check ALL the wire connections on the firewall.
Check the brass tabs, bottom too, inside the coil box to make sure they are making good contact with the solder coil buttons.
If the one coil buzzes consistently it shouldn't be the switch.
Did you remove the spark plugs and pour a little light oil in the cylinders before you started cranking?
My first suggestion is: Tell us where you are, and we'll see if any other member is close enough to come give you a hand. We all love doing this, if we can get to you with some ease.
Sounds like the timer is dirty. It's the dome-shaped thing on the front of the engine, right side, with 4 wires attached. It's held in place by a metal strap. Loosen the bolt enough to swing the strap to the side, and remove the cotter pin from the rod through the tab on the top of the timer. Then pull it off.
It isn't necessary to remove the wires, as there should be enough play for you to be able to swing the timer up to where you can clean the inside.
Use thinner of some kind (kerosene, lacquer thinner, gasoline, etc.) to clean the inside of the timer. Then clean the roller similarly.
Put it all back together. If there is an oil flap on the dome, squirt a little motor oil in. If not, oil the roller's shaft, and that should do it.
Then re-try making the 4 coils buzz. If any one or two don't buzz as you crank the engine over (2 complete turns), try switching the coils around (they lift out of the box and slip back in). That will tell you whether the problem is the coil or the circuit, and sometimes just taking them out and putting them back cleans the contacts and solves a problem.
At some point, you need to have the coils professionally rebuilt and tuned. This is critical. You send them to one of the folks who advertise on this site. It takes a couple of weeks, and the cost is the best bucks you'll spend to make your T run right.
Put one or both ends of the rear axle on jack stands - not just a jack - wheels off the ground. Then put the brake lever all the way forward. This will make cranking as easy as it can be.
If the car has been stored a while, chances are the fuel system needs cleaning. Old gas evaporates and leaves a varnish-like coating that makes things in-operative. Taking the system apart and cleaning it thoroughly, is something you can tackle while the coils are off being rebuilt.
Most folks seem to think lacquer thinner is the best thing to use to de-gum the system, but there may be stuff sold at auto-parts houses that work well.
Under no circumstances should you try to use old gasoline. Make sure it's all fresh. Old gas doesn't vaporize.
Make sure you have fresh oil in the engine (and transmission - it's all the same). It should run out of the bottom petcock on the rear of the transmission, but when it starts to run out the top one, it's full.
These basics should get you started.
Let us know how it goes.
Yes, all 4 coils have to buzz as you crank over the T for all 4 cyl to revolve.
At least one will buzz at magneto speed of hand cranking so that means the T has a good magneto.
Start at the coil box, make sure all 4 are in and secure against the contacts, you may have to remove each and clean or adjust the contacts in the coilbox so the coils are in contact with the terminals.
Then check wiring to timer, remove and clean the timer roller contact and the contacts in the rim of the timer shell.
Remove the spark plugs, lay them on the cyl head, still wired to the dash terminals of the coil box, but in good ground on the cyl head, and then crank over. All four should throw a spark as you crank, if not, you have to replace or adjust the coils that won't fire.
The cranking will be tough, as oil in the crankcase and trans is old and stiff. Jack up the left rear wheel so it can spin as you crank, as the T only has a 'sort of ' neutral. The rear wheel will turn some even with the clutch lever upright, just don't have it pulled too far back to engage the rear emergency brake shoes. The turning rear wheel will give you a bit more momentum acting like a flywheel to help you turn over the motor.
These books will help you along the way too
P. S. DO NOT ask on the Forum what oil to use!!!! That would start a thread a mile long, and when it's all said and done, use the same oil you put in your other cars.
It is normal to have some drag on in the clutch disks and rearend, it is a Model T thing. You will never get a completely free clutch as you do on a more modern car. Once you get it started and get the oil circulating it should free up some. I hate to mention it but most suggest using a lighter oil. Without starting an engine oil discussion here, do a search for engine oil and read what has been wrote many times before.
About the coils, you really need to get or borrow or have your coils checked on a proper coil tester. There must be someone close to you that can help you out with the coils.
Other then that, be sure to read this "REMOVING A ‘T’ FROM MOTHBALLS" thread:
You don't need to remove the timer wires to clean it. Leave them connected. You only need loosen the clamp bolt and remove the cotter pin on the timer rod.
will give all your suggestions a try tomorrow but if any one is in uk near peterbough to lend a hand would be appretieted !!
Lots of good advice here that should get you going. Here's a link for any new owner of a T, whether it's running yet or not:
And here's one with information you'll need after it's running:
When you jack up the rear wheels be sure to put chocks in place on the front wheels for safety. It's always possible to have the car slip off of or be bumped off the stands.
thanks for all infomation managed to get her running...hooray !!
has any one got a set of brake shoes and a steering wheel for my 1915 model t ?
You can buy parts from any of the parts suppliers.
are three of them. There is a complete list of suppliers on the home page of this site.
Or you can place a wanted ad in the classified on this site.
Or you can go to swap meets, which a lot of Model T folks like to do. see http://www.modelt.org/index.php?option=com_eventlist&view=eventlist&Itemid=2
Or you can watch the ads on eBay.
I haven't had a chance to try the new brake shoes that recently became available, but I've heard they're very good. Most of the vendors will have them. Lang's is probably closest to you, so their shipping may be least costly. http://www.modeltford.com/item/2566AQ.aspx
Steering wheels for 1919-1925 are relatively common, but 1915 is another story. Before spending several hundred dollars for one from a US dealer, I'd scour Britain first. You might get lucky. If that doesn't work, try classified ads in Vintage Ford, Model T Times, the MTFCA and MTFCI website classifieds, and Ebay. As a last resort, you can bite the bullet and buy one from one of the parts dealers. If the car currently has none, you can get by with one of the later Fordite wheels while you shop for one that's right for 1915. Or, if you're not concerned with authenticity, you can just go with a 1919-1925 wheel and save a pile of pounds.
If you don't understand how the Model T transmission works, you better get the books from MTFCA and study them hard before you try to operate the car. It is tricky and can be very dangerous. A local Model T owner can be a great assist in not only making the engine run, but also operating the car safely. A minor screw-up by the operator/driver can damage something or hurt somebody. I just went through the "new owner" phase and did all the above, but still learning.
send your coils to steve thum he is on this site, he did mine, he is the leading authority on this,
Yes, Steven Thum can fix your coils, and so can Ron Patterson and Brent Mize, and others over here. But before you ship your coils across the pond, check with T chaps there in Britain and see if there's someone there who can do it and save the hassle and expense of international shipping.
Buy and read the books. Find someone close to help you(besides you'll make a new friend). Stay on the forum and ask the obligatory 250 questions. And remember none of them are done. We've all asked them too. Good luck and enjoy.