I don't know where I got this one, but apparently it got a little water in it sometime. One thing most of these old carburetors have in common is a boogered-up spray nozzle that somebody left in because they chewed it up when they tried to get it out with an ordinary screwdriver.
Looks fine to me
I have an NH in the shop that was kinda like that - cleaned up, sprayed with clear lacquer, made a base for it to sit in - makes a GREAT paperweight!
My current problem child is an ancient Schebler that looks as if the float is cast INTO the carb - no discernable way to open it up. It looks like it could quite the fuel atomizer if only...
Susanne you might ask at;
Someone over there might know.
Steve,I have four of those rebuilt and could let you have one reasonably.
Oh, I have plenty. Actually this body looks pretty good, and should be an easy rebuild when I get some more pressing chores out of the way.
Looks like you've been trying to run with E85.
What happened to that float ???
The car was running so much gas through it it sucked the air out of the float!
My guess on that float. If a float fills with gasoline and sinks, you are supposed to hang the float, with the leak at the bottom. Then heat the float up so that the expanding air and gasoline vapor forces the gasoline out the leak. This must be done carefully and if a flame is used to heat it it must be used only at the top of the hanging float away from the gasoline streaming out of the errant float.
The gasoline leaking out also shows clearly where the leak is. After all the liquid gasoline has vacated the float, solder the leak. However, if you solder the leak while the float and the air/vapor is still too hot, the cooling and condensing air inside could result in enough external air pressure to partially crush the float.
Drive carefully, and enjoy the holidays! W2
I think it was full of water and froze crushing the float a long time ago.
Just a thought.
Probably a more correct thought! I bet you're right!
Nothing a little Kroil and diesel won't fix.
Frozen/crushed is correct. Seen it a few times on small engines. The first time I saw it was a puzzlement because the ice had also distorted the bowl and when it thawed the water ran out past the bowl nut so it was dry inside. Took the parts with me for replacements and the counterman said: Ice huh?
Don't know if you have any holes in the bowl but here's a neat trick I used on a brass Kingston L2 which had a bowl that looked like swiss cheese. I would guess about 15$ of the bowl had rested through.
Sandblast or sand the inside of the bowl. Then cover any holes on the out side with masking tape and smooth it as best you can. Coat the inside of the bowl with a layer of JB Weld. Ideal thickness is about 1/16 to 3/32". It may take several applications to do the entire area that's rusted. When done it should flow out and look like a smooth coating. Take off the tape and sand the outside of the bowl, finishing with fine sandpaper. Use black appliance epoxy enamel on the outside of the bowl only.
When done the bowl should look like its a NOS bowl. My L2 has been running with its original bowl repaired this way for about 3 months. No sign of gas affecting the inside jb coating and no sign of leaks.
Use the cut off bottom of a small propane bottle. KB