Engine running, mash on any of the three pedals and the motor bogs down and dies. I have a warford on my T tranny, would that have anything to do with the bogging down? What is going on? I can't figure it out.
Warford in two gears at once? This always locks up sliding gear trannies.
No sir, I checked on that out already. I'm not real sure what it is, I've racked my brain on it all day!!
If you push on the brake and the engine bogs down, it sound like the the clutch is not released. Do you have the hand brake 1/2 way back or the clutch peddle 1/2 way down?
Jim, I tried both, if I mash the pedal farther than half way it starts to bog down and will die if i keep mashing, as does reverse and the brake pedal.
Triple gears froze up? If your Warford is in neutral and the triple gears were froze, then it seems it would give you your symptoms.
If the clutch was not releasing would'nt you be in high gear, are you able to roll the car back and forth, hand brake straight up in free neutral position without the engine turning over?
Jim, I put slingers on my tranny and rotated it in the pan to make sure nothing would hit or rub and the tranny rotated fine, would the triple gears be roatating with the tranny when I rotated it or not??
With the Warford in neutral and the triple gears froze, the whole transmission would rotate just fine.
Well heck, that may be my problem then. I sure hate to have to pull that thing back out!!!
George, with my motor running the truck will not move, wouldn't it try to take off if the clutch was not releasing? or not?
You can reach in and check each triple gear for movement. If they can be moved then they may be ok. Can you move the car in high under power? Have you check to see if the brakes are free or are they binding because they are too tight even with the parking brake handle in the forward position or when in the upright(neutral) position.
Mark, truck won't move at all, aux. bennett brakes are not hooked up yet, so they are not binding. I'm puzzled. I'll check the gears in the morning and see if maybe for some reason they are froze up.
If the clutch was not releasing it would try to move in high gear(Ford trans.) I looked at your profile and see you have a wrecker which is heavier than a regular car for pushing around to check if the clutch is released in free neutral , I would think you may need to check for a seized drum bushing, if you believe the Warford is not the culprit. Also what gear position is the Warford in it should be in direct to test.
If you put the engine together recently maybe the triple gears are not in sych'.
You would still have the internal parking brakes that could be stuck to the drums. You are putting the low pedal into neutral when you press down on the brake or reverse pedal? If you just press down on the brake or reverse without doing so, you will kill the engine. Are you giving it enough gas to start out?
You might try jacking up the rear wheels one side at a time and with the brake lever released try cranking the motor over with the crank and see if the rear wheels turn.
Kevin says pushing the brake pedal stalls the engine with the truck not moving. That tells us two things for sure:
1. The Warford is in neutral
2. The clutch is not disengaged.
Kevin I am assuming you know that the brake lever needs to be pulled rearward to disengage the clutch. Right?
Kevin you need to figure out if the parking brake lever cam / clutch adjustment is correct first. Then place the Warford in gear before starting the engine and see what happens.
I second the "triple gears froze up"
Triple gears not froze, still searching. Pretty sure my clutch is not working right, try to start with warford in gear, mashing in on clutch half way and it still wants to lurch forward.
Kevin, it is easiest to fool with this with the rear wheels up on jack stands. Since you are in to check the triple gears it is really easy to check your clutch adjustment... and the outside adjustment of the clutch. If the clutch fingers are too loose they won't release the clutch and will cause the symptoms you mention... easy couple of minutes fix.
... don't drop your cotter pins in there!
Thanks Terry, that will be my next step. I'm trying all these diff. ideas with no luck. Hoping I can figure it out soon.
Unless your clutch linkage is not adjusted properly, which might be an easy fix, you're going to need to pull the engine. There is simply no screwing around, short of the usual adjustments, that is going to fix what's wrong. More likely, something will get even more messed up by trying it over and over.
You've been asked a couple of times if your linkage is in fact releasing the clutch. (Even though the clutch may not be responding.) With the trans cover off and the stick in neutral, are the three clutch fingers loose and not applying any force on the clutch pack?
Yes sir, with it in neutral, the three fingers are applying force on the clutch pack.
Kevin. I'm sure some one will explain that when in neutral. the three fingers should be loose. With pressure they will engage the clutch and try to move the truck>
Opposite of most modern cars. The three fingers put pressure onto the clutch discs locking the car into high gear. When the brake/clutch handle is pulled back, it should pull the fingers loose to release the clutch which is as close to neutral as a standard model T gets. A Warford does give an additional neutral. A standard model T neutral is also required for low and reverse bands to work.
Drive carefully, and enjoy the holidays! W2
Look at this link, especially the post and diagram about half way down. ..
.has your adjuster slipped off the cam?
"Yes sir, with it in neutral, the three fingers are applying force on the clutch pack."
If that's the case, you've found why you're not getting neutral. Now, examine the linkage, as described above, to determine why the fingers are not loosening up when the stick is in neutral.
I had somewhat of a similar problem, after rebuilding the eng. and trans for my '24. Started and ran fine for a few minutes then stalled ,thinking I didn't have much fuel in it I called it a day. Left it alone for several months, got it out of the trailer put fuel in, started and ran fine then stalled. No neutral, so... after some discussion with one of the old T guys in our club I pulled inspection cover and checked for play at reverse drum, none. I could flex it but no end play was noticeable. Didn,t want to but pulled eng. out lifted off pan pulled clutch apart and behind or in front of inner clutch drum were the three .042 thrust washers all gualded and burnt blue. In short if you use a new turbo 400 clutch assembly with the new inner drum check your clearance. Should be end play at rev. drum after bolted together. I put my drum on the lathe and took off approx. .008-.010 works fine now.
Found the prob, behind each of the three fingers is that plate with the three titties stickin out, well, somehow that plate got pushed back far enough to where it came out of the holes and spun a little not allowing the three titties to protrude through. What in the world would have caused this? Maybe someone previously put it together wrong? It deff. never ran this way for sure.
One thing you can count on if it has tittie$ or wheeles its bound to give you trouble sometime.
You got that right, George.
Right about that George!!!!
Either the clutch was assembled wrong or the clutch disk are severly worn or not the correct number of disk or maybe the studs and the holes are badly worn to the point they can rotate some. If you have the modern material disks they may be completly worn out.Or possibly the bolts holding the output shaft are loose and allowed the guts to seperate.
Kevin, I just fixed one like that, it had the turbo 400 disc in it and when it left the fingers where adjusted where they needed to be but some one else decided they needed to adjust them differently, the disc where smoked and the " titties" had slid. It now has the steel disc back in it and it works fine, the way they should be!