Engine/Pan(crankcase) Hardware & Sequence?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Engine/Pan(crankcase) Hardware & Sequence?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Paul O'Neil on Sunday, December 23, 2012 - 04:13 pm:

More than a year after I took this motor out of the car and apart for what I thought was only going to be a few weeks work, it is finally going back together again. The short block is assembled and a couple of days ago one of my pals used to work on jet engines in stationary powerplants came over and safety wired the transmission to the crankshaft. Here are a few pictures:

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EngineTrans01 (123.4 k)


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EngineTrans02 (114.4 k)


There is no magneto in the motor and spacer washers were used
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EngineTrans03 (75.5 k)


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EngineTrans04 (61.4 k)


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EngineTrans05 (123.8 k)


Next comes the pan or "crankcase" as Ford called it. It was straightened by Glenn Chaffen and is now painted and ready to assemble to the car. To aid in this I bought a hardware set that supposedly has everything needed for this assembly. Here is a pic of that set:

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EngineTrans07 (39.0 k)


I would have preferred stainless but this is what the supplier had and I didn't want to spend the additional time. I was ordering the crank sleeve from Lang's and noticed an additional item that seemed like it might be worthwhile. They were a set of plastic seals for the engine/pan hardware. The set was cheap, something like $3.50 and I took a flyer on them. Here is that set:

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EngineTrans06 (34.4 k)


The set came just as you see it in the picture - no directions! Where do these seals go?

The next step will be to mount the pan to the engine. I have the motor standing on its nose right now and as I understand the procedure, the pan is bolted loosely to the engine, the forth main is bolted to the pan and then all the rest of the hardware is installed and snugged up. Is there anything more I should do? Other suggestions?

Vintage Paul


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Paul O'Neil on Sunday, December 23, 2012 - 04:16 pm:

Gee, I wonder what happened to the pictures? I have posted pics plenty of times before without issues.

Vintage Paul


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George_Cherry Hill NJ on Sunday, December 23, 2012 - 04:21 pm:

Paul, I suspect you emailed them to yourself for size...and then posted them as .eml without thinking.

They are there! Click and tell them to open with MSPaint and you get the pictures


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Paul O'Neil on Sunday, December 23, 2012 - 04:29 pm:

All I get from them is gibberish. I'm glad you were able to make sense of them. I have done this on this forum and many others hundreds of time without issues. The pictures were taken with the same camera, the images were cropped, sized, adjusted and web optimized in Photoshop and posted in the usual way. This project seems to generate more than its share of mysteries . . .


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Seth - Ohio on Sunday, December 23, 2012 - 05:28 pm:

Paul,

Nice looking engine.

(I clicked on the letters in the block and the photos opened for me.)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Paul O'Neil on Sunday, December 23, 2012 - 05:39 pm:

Thanks Dennis, it has sure been a long road to getting it this far. This is a new block & crank, one rod and of course, new babbit. The valves are new as are many other bits. Now I just have to finish it!

Vintage Paul


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Seth - Ohio on Sunday, December 23, 2012 - 05:55 pm:

There is nothing better then the sound of a Model T engine! especially one that you have rebuilt yourself!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Thode Chehalis Washington on Sunday, December 23, 2012 - 07:17 pm:

Paul,
Here are you photos. I have to change the file extension from "UNK" to "JPG" to see them.















Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Paul O'Neil on Sunday, December 23, 2012 - 07:37 pm:

Thanks Jim, I shouda seen that myself. I was trying to do things quickly to get back to work on the T before the rain started.

Any ideas on those plastic washers?

Vintage Paul


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By SnowT on Sunday, December 23, 2012 - 08:36 pm:

Paul-

The bag on the left in your picture should contain enough washers for the oil pan inspection cover bolts and transmission inspection cover screws. The bag on the right should be the valve cover studs/bolts (2), low band adjustment lock nut and oil drain plug.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Paul O'Neil on Sunday, December 23, 2012 - 08:52 pm:

Thanks SnowT, do these plastic washers really make a difference? They sure don't look like they belong on a T motor . . .

Vintage Paul


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By SnowT on Sunday, December 23, 2012 - 09:05 pm:

Paul-

I agree, they don't look quite right. I have found after some time the washers deform from heating/cooling cycles and "mushroom" around the heads of the bolts. I haven't used them in quite a long time but I don't remember having leaks with them in place. I've had the same experience using the rubber bonded type sealing washers as well; the rubber softens and mushrooms from under the steel washer.

My standard practice now is to clean all of the bolts thoroughly and use some Loctite 567 High Temp thread sealant on the bolt threads. This, combined with appropriate usage of rtv on the gaskets eliminates a good amount of drips for me.

I use a fiber sealing washer under the low speed adjusting nut and a copper crush washer on the oil drain plug


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tony Bowker on Monday, December 24, 2012 - 12:41 am:

I use copper washers, available from McMaster-Carr, to help seal the inspection pan bolts. They look good and work!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Paul O'Neil on Wednesday, December 26, 2012 - 01:18 pm:

Thanks guys, I'll be sorting hardware today and looking to install the pan Thursday after the weather clears. I think I'll skip the plastic washers.

Next will be the hogshead. The book makes that job look straightforward but I haven't done it before and will have to see how it goes.

Vintage Paul


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By george house on Thursday, December 27, 2012 - 02:10 pm:

You'll do good to skip the plastic washers on the crankcase underside inspection cover (3 dip/4 dip). I use light cotton string found on feed sacks. Just wrap them opposite bolt rotation about 4-5 times and you'll never get any leaks


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