More than a year after I took this motor out of the car and apart for what I thought was only going to be a few weeks work, it is finally going back together again. The short block is assembled and a couple of days ago one of my pals used to work on jet engines in stationary powerplants came over and safety wired the transmission to the crankshaft. Here are a few pictures:
EngineTrans01 (123.4 k)
EngineTrans02 (114.4 k)
EngineTrans03 (75.5 k)
EngineTrans04 (61.4 k)
EngineTrans05 (123.8 k)
EngineTrans07 (39.0 k)
EngineTrans06 (34.4 k)
Gee, I wonder what happened to the pictures? I have posted pics plenty of times before without issues.
Paul, I suspect you emailed them to yourself for size...and then posted them as .eml without thinking.
They are there! Click and tell them to open with MSPaint and you get the pictures
All I get from them is gibberish. I'm glad you were able to make sense of them. I have done this on this forum and many others hundreds of time without issues. The pictures were taken with the same camera, the images were cropped, sized, adjusted and web optimized in Photoshop and posted in the usual way. This project seems to generate more than its share of mysteries . . .
Nice looking engine.
(I clicked on the letters in the block and the photos opened for me.)
Thanks Dennis, it has sure been a long road to getting it this far. This is a new block & crank, one rod and of course, new babbit. The valves are new as are many other bits. Now I just have to finish it!
There is nothing better then the sound of a Model T engine! especially one that you have rebuilt yourself!
Here are you photos. I have to change the file extension from "UNK" to "JPG" to see them.
Thanks Jim, I shouda seen that myself. I was trying to do things quickly to get back to work on the T before the rain started.
Any ideas on those plastic washers?
The bag on the left in your picture should contain enough washers for the oil pan inspection cover bolts and transmission inspection cover screws. The bag on the right should be the valve cover studs/bolts (2), low band adjustment lock nut and oil drain plug.
Thanks SnowT, do these plastic washers really make a difference? They sure don't look like they belong on a T motor . . .
I agree, they don't look quite right. I have found after some time the washers deform from heating/cooling cycles and "mushroom" around the heads of the bolts. I haven't used them in quite a long time but I don't remember having leaks with them in place. I've had the same experience using the rubber bonded type sealing washers as well; the rubber softens and mushrooms from under the steel washer.
My standard practice now is to clean all of the bolts thoroughly and use some Loctite 567 High Temp thread sealant on the bolt threads. This, combined with appropriate usage of rtv on the gaskets eliminates a good amount of drips for me.
I use a fiber sealing washer under the low speed adjusting nut and a copper crush washer on the oil drain plug
I use copper washers, available from McMaster-Carr, to help seal the inspection pan bolts. They look good and work!
Thanks guys, I'll be sorting hardware today and looking to install the pan Thursday after the weather clears. I think I'll skip the plastic washers.
Next will be the hogshead. The book makes that job look straightforward but I haven't done it before and will have to see how it goes.
You'll do good to skip the plastic washers on the crankcase underside inspection cover (3 dip/4 dip). I use light cotton string found on feed sacks. Just wrap them opposite bolt rotation about 4-5 times and you'll never get any leaks