I'm putting a new coat of varnish on my wooden spokes. I purchased a new quart can of varnish and it is not drying. Even after a coupe of weeks it is dry to the touch, but has an odd feel. When I sand it it does not dust, but immediately clogs the sand paper and you can see the varnish roll off as mud. Does anyone know of some thing I can add to the varnish to promote better drying. I'll probably just purchase a different brand.
Thanks Mike
Varnish dries fairly quickly - overnight should suffice in Wisconsin in the winter when the humidity is low.
It's probably not the varnish but what is underneath the varnish that is causing the problem.
Did you strip an old set of wheels or is this fresh wood that has never been painted or sanded before?
Varnish dries fairly quickly - overnight should suffice in Wisconsin in the winter when the humidity is low.
It's probably not the varnish but what is underneath the varnish that is causing the problem.
Did you strip an old set of wheels or is this fresh wood that has never been painted or varnished before?
Sure did. There are a number of nicks, dings and other ouchies. So to make it look as best as possible I sanded all the old stuff off. Of course there is still some in the pores. But for the most part I'm down to bare wood. I've applied a few gallons of varnish in my days, something is wrong with this batch.
Try putting that same varnish on some other wood and see how it dries. I have a feeling you'll get the same result and that somethings not right with the varnish. Maybe it just needs to dry longer.
I'll try. I'm working on two wheels and each is reacting the same way. Even after a couple of weeks of drying, the surface feels soft. I am applying the varnish in about 65 degrees and rather dry air. So I would think that it should dry.
I have the same problem trying to get oil based paint to dry outside in the 40 degree weather here in Maryland, where I am visiting. If it doesn't dry on another unmolested piece of wood, try taking it to Australia or putting it next to the furnace.
Neil
Mike
You might contact the Co. and find if there might have been a bad batch. I did the same thing years back with rattle cans that would not dry and they sent me new ones and they worked well. Worth a try and good luck.
Bob
Thanks, I get a letter off tomorrow. As for going to Australia, been there, Alice Springs. It is hot there 100 degrees this time of year.
Mike
I found out rather quickly that varnish didn't cut it on marine applications. It was quick to peel and dull. I use only Sikkens Original. It lasts for years and even on teak, which is very oily. Sikkens is almost UV proof and I have never had it peel. Just my two cents that means nothing to no one.
I looked it up, a little pricely, but if it lasts maybe it is worth it. I'm try it on the other two wheels and can make a comparison over time. Thanks
Mike
I've done a lot of varnishing over the years and it does sound like you got a can of a bad lot, even though 65 degrees is a tad cool for the application--should be right around 70 at max 50% humidity. If you can bake them for an hour at 150 degrees, the finish remaining in the substrate may bubble, but that can be sanded down, as the entire wheel should be. The baking should cause a chemical reaction in the gooey finish, which will then harden after several hours to the point where you can sand it. Then apply several coats of some good stuff. My sympathies--your situation is a real headache. BTDT.
One last point--varnish should be applied in several thin coats, with ample dry time between each. If you initially applied it too heavily, that will greatly increase curing time and may prevent it altogether.
Yeah, I learned long ago that varnish works better with thin coats. Oh, nothing to worry about. I have purchased another brand this afternoon and have applied it and so far things are looking up. As you said probably a bad batch. Even still, the car isn't going anywhere for a few months, I have a lot of time.
Thanks Mike
Do a coat and let it tack up. Put a second coat on and bring the wheels inside and let them sleep overnite next to the heat register. Honest. The stuff you varnish needs to be warm internally as well, like an all day in a warm shop heat soke.
If your paper still gums up sand in one direction only. Honest again. troop
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Might be a bad batch or the temp is too low. I had a gallon like that years ago. I just would not cure and I ended up taking it off. I have used Epfanes ever since. No matter what you use, it needs to be at least 70 degrees to cure properly....Chip
While its still tacky to the touch, wipe all the varnish off with lacquer thinner. Then get you something that will work I used polyurethane on mine seems to be doing fine.
Hi Mike - I really like your profile picture...it really shows it like it is for this time of the year in Wisconsin.
Keith
There was a recent post on Rustoleum that may have value. As I recall the user put a coat on, let it set overnight and recoated it. The first coat felt dry but when the second coat was put on it it became soft and had all sorts of problems with it. It was determined that if recoating, it should be done while it is still tacky and then set aside for a couple of days to dry. Possibly someone could find that post. When I read that post it seemed reasonable. Something about putting a second coat on to soon, it sealed the first coat and would not allow it to dry. Putting more on while the first coat is still tacky is suppose to allow both coats to set up at the nearly the same speed.
That would be a real bummer, spending all that time prepping the wheels and then have something like that happen.
The temperature of the wood, varnish and area MUST be warmer than 60 degrees or the vehicle in the varnish will not evaporate (dry). Cut the varnish 60%turpentine- 40% varnish for the first 2 coats. Then reverse the % for the next 2. Sand between each coat. Put the last 2 coats on full strength. To help the drying process you can use a fan set well back to help the air circulate better. Good luck
First I want to thank everyone for their 2 cents on this post. Never thought there were so many knowledge people with good ideas.
Well..... I sanded and scraped both wheels again. I am inside where the temperature is between 60 and 65 and it is dry. Here is one wheel after it was cleaned up.
I have cut the varnish with some turpentine and applied a first coat on the other wheel. It has about 15 hours of drying time on it and it looks and feels good.
I suppose I'll wait until tomorrow for the second coat. I little sanding with 220 paper and then cleaning I'll try the cut varnish again.
Later today I'll get the first coat on the second wheel. We will see, but I'm already hopeful of a good out come. Thanks for all the help
Mike
If I recall, Rustoleum states you can put on a second coat within 1 hour. Otherwise you have to wait 48 hours before applying the second coat.
Looking good Mike.
If you have a cool painting area you may want to wait more than 48 hrs for the Rustoleum to cure. I had some crinkle after drying almost three days but the shop was about 55* overnight. Didn't have any problem with the varnish though. I'm using a varnish for exterior applications. Some is for interior use.