1915 Engine Removal

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: 1915 Engine Removal
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 05:20 pm:

One of these days I'm going to be pulling the power plant out of this car for engine and magneto work. The Ford bible doesn't mention the firewall or body, but the picture shows an engine being pulled from a frame that has a firewall, but no body. Will I need to raise the body to get the arms past the firewall? Eventually I'll need to do the same job on the '23 touring. Any body movement needed there?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 06:28 pm:

Steve, on my 1915 tourer I relieved the bottom of the firewall so the pan ears could be slid under it as the motor was pulled forward. Looks like you will need to relieve the lower body timbers a bit also. This sure beats upsetting the firewall, especially if you have made the effort to seal it to the body.

Hope this helps.


Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 07:33 pm:

I always just remove the firewall. Leave the wiring harness, coil box, and timer all connected to the firewall. Disconnect the wiring to the headlights and mag post and battery (if you have one).

Chances are you won't be pulling the engine again for a few decades. An extra hour of work won't seem important when you are done.

This is my '15 in 2003 with the engine out and as you can see, no firewall. The engine has not been out since, and the magneto and coils have required no maintenance since then.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 09:01 pm:

Steve -- The way I find easy is to unbolt the firewall brackets from the frame and loosen the 6 bolts which hold the body down, then lift up the front of the body/firewall assembly. The firewall and all its paraphernalia remain connected to the body.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 09:04 pm:

p.s. -- I'm not as familiar with the 23's, but I think that by that time the firewall was made shorter at the bottom, allowing a space to slide the crankcase ears past it. And, it should have the firewall brackets bolted to the outside of the frame, rather than on top of it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 09:09 pm:

The '23 metal firewall T engine removal is a piece of cake compared to those silly brass cars with wooden firewalls :-)



Lots of clearance under the metal dash/body, and the outside frame mounted firewall brackets.




Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 09:32 pm:

Forgot, the Dykes Manual had the info on the removal too.

All 1917 and later allow the engine pan arms to slip under the dash.



And if you trim away some of the flat wood firewall on the earlier T's, that can help ease the work of engine removal.


Dykes Manual, 1923.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 09:37 pm:

Planning ahead, should the Autowa touring ever need its engine pulled, cut some relief for the engine, pan ears, and starter too on the replacement wooden firewall. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Sunday, December 30, 2012 - 02:02 am:

Whether to remove the firewall or lift the body with firewall attached depends on one of two things. Whether the firewall has been sealed/glued to the body (if known), or which set of bolts are more willing to cooperate and come apart.
Mike W did miss one thing. Unbolt the steering to frame bracket and drag link. Along with the body to frame and firewall to frame bolts, you should be able to lift the front of the body several inches. I usually only loosen the rear two body to frame bolts. They keep the body from sliding around too much. Remove the other four along with the four between the firewall brackets and frame. Check about wiring, that depends upon the individual car. Lift the front of the body about six inches (pivoted up from the rear two bolts just loose enough to not bind). That should be enough to slip the engine and transmission out past the steering column and firewall.
Block the body up securely to protect your fingers.
Happy new year to all! W2


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