How tight should the brass magnet screws be? thanks, Ken
Snug them down, very tight without stripping the threads Then peen over the ends so they won't back out.
I use the same tools as in removing, a large single slot screwdriver with long square shank, then an open end wrench on the sq. shaft for more torque in tightening.
I use a brace and bit to get them good and tight - then peen them over.
Be_Zero_Be in Leesburg, VA
What Dan and Bob have said is pretty much correct. However, the tightening is part of the leveling process. If you don't have the electrical book, get one. If you don't have a leveling gauge, buy or borrow one. Getting the magnets all even is critical to setting up your magneto. We have done a few in the Huntsville area recently and we try to get the magnets within 0.002 inch. Without the leveling gauge this is difficult to do unless you have good machinist tools. I'm hoping you are installing freshly charged magnets as well.
In addition, if you haven't set up a magneto before, here are some threads to research.
Also a brass hammer is needed when adjusting the magnet heights. Hopefully you are using new spacers, old original ones may fail if re-used.
Ken, get them tight. I use the technique with the screw driver and the wrench on it. The gauge is really important in order to get the magnets level to each other and perpendicular to the transmission shaft. The book will tell you to start with the lowest one and tap and tighten the screws on each magnet plate until they are within .002" or better. After you have them all level to each other and perpendicular to the transmission shaft then peen the end of the screws. When leveling the plates use a soft hammer like a lead or brass hammer. Good luck.
I like the KRW MAGNET HEIGHT GAUGE the best, but Stevens made one too. There are new ones too available from the repro guys.
Ken - if you have trouble screwing the screws in at all you may have got the wrong screws!
There are the correct size #14-24 and then the incorrect 1/4"-24. The outer diameter of the 1/4"-24 thread is just a little larger than the #14-24 thread so a 1/4"-24 screw go very tight in the original and correct #14-24 tread.
If you find one spool that is shorter then the rest, instead of beating the rest in submission to match it, shim the short one up by making a brass shim washer. Don't peen till all are set in case you need to replace or shim one of the spools.
I don't like to tap the magnets. Some people told me that by tapping some of the magnetism get lost, and I am also afraid for breaking the magnets .
If it don't work now then I will try it next year Toon
If you tap and break the magnet that easy, it isn't any good any how.
I set up the magnets today. For an experienced T guy maybe a couple of hours. I started at 8 am and finished around 2 pm.I didn't have a KRW gauge so i used a dial indicator with a magnetic with a magnetic base.I was surprised how close most of them were. I had 6 that were between .006 and .011 tall and 2 or 3 short ones. i flat sanded the tall ones within .002 and finished by taping the remainder.I did swap a few around. they all measure within .002 . Thanks for everyone's help. Ken
I loosened the bolt at the v end of the magnets before i taped the spools. I didn't feel good about striking the magnet end so i re magnetized each of those. Ken
They say "there is no such thing as a dumb question" so here is mine. When speaking about the magnet screws I never have seen any mention about using stainless steel why not. If it supposed to be non magnetic it should fill the bill and I would not think we would have to worry about crystalization(spelling). Jim
Because the cost of manufacturing stainless steel screws with out some traces of magnetism is expensive. Most Stainless you buy has some junk in it that is magnetic. To show what I'm saying get a piece of 304 stainless and touch it with a magnet and you'll find the 304 is some magnetic. 316 is a lot better. And anything beyond that would be very expensive. And brass is so easy to machine when compared to stainless.