I finally have the 1913 touring rewooding plans completed. I would like to thank Dick Wallis for giving me 90% of the original wood he had and also Chris Flicks Dad for loaning me a front door and a rear door. I also made up a set of door drawings for the right hand drive T's. Now off to the printer on Monday I have five sets of door plans to send out from Switzerland to Australia. Leon
If you need a great set of wood skeleton plans, these are the set you need.
I personally highly recommend them.
Hi Guys, I have a question for you on this one,
If Leon is in Switzerland WHICH body plans are you working off as the plans for Canadian car bodies are very different to American car bodies and I do not mean just the right door. As David Chantrell will tell you, the US bodies are beaudet(I think that's how you spell it) and the Canadian and Australian are Fisher,
David, I have full sets of the American plans here and the Canadian tin would not fit on what the plans said as we compared it to my timber work and I did not use them as to cut off the plans to replace rotten timber on my car and it would not marry in to what was there so we diced them and made off what I had left so are you going to build US bodies with right hand doors fitted. Ray
Hello Ray,merry Christmas, well where would you start.
1913....just Touring Bodies:-
( Wilson, Beaudette, Dodge xxxxx,xxxxxx,xxxxx )
-6 body makers supply Ford with completed bodies.
-lets assume 10 bodies being built at anyone time.
-why not assume 3 bodies per day per team.
-That assumed, say 2 body builders per body.
ALL HAND MADE.
Unless my math is wrong, that adds up to how many variations per body per day, just on US derived cars......
360 possible variations per day.
Then you can throw Canadian bodies into that mix, l have no idea how many makers provided Ford with Canadian Bodes, but l'm sure you have the idea.
I'm guessing it would be possible to find two exact copy bodies, but good luck.
The cladding/body panels if pressed, most likely wont change per body maker, but 6 variations on USA pressed steel too....as an after thought.
I'am in Kentucky. I have door plans to go out to Australia, Switzerland, United Kingdom, Ohio, and
Minn. to complete the sets of plans that have been sold. I have found four types of construction of the wood in a 1913. The best built is the Beaudette body. The wood is heavier in construction. I have 90% of the original wood from a Beaudette body and was loaned the doors from a Wilson body. That door wood was marked with a W and body numbers.They are of lighter construction. I made the door prints heavier like the Beaudette door wood. I had just two parts of the Beaudette door wood. When you build a 1913 or earlier body you have to think like it is a custom made body and fit your metal and wood as you go. I have also found that hinge and latch can be up or down on the pillars as much as 3/16". The rear seat construction is made different by each vender also. Leon
Hi David, thanks for the long talk while I sat out side KFC today, I had the air con going and the people eating away got fed up with the engine running that they moved. I am glad we both agree that the Canadian body was the best build in the way of finish and construction. This Quote by Leon is what threw me (I have five sets of door plans to send out from Switzerland to Australia. Leon) which to me means he's there and with no town or state on the profile only left it as my conclusion. I have found an exact match to my T's body and he has the same problems that I encounter with the rear door hinges and body movement when removed from the frame.
Leon, well done on getting some usable plans as millers plans just did not work but we need the Fisher plans from Canada for our cars so theres a new challenge. As David only has US build T's in his stable of fine autos which I was unaware of and I can see why he would use your plans.
I took my body into where I was working at the time and had the local cabinet maker do the timber in his spare time and he did the best with what I gave him and he cleaned the timber back that it looked like new then loaned it to another person to finish off and he used it to change his design he was working off. I still had some of the spare timber up till I moved out here and it was thrown out so much other stuff as you can not take every bit with you, at two 40foot containers was the limit... Ray
A note about rewooding any model T. You are working on a 100 year old car. Most people that have to rewood, have a body that has been well used or metal from all over to make a body. Ford had five or six venders making bodies for him. A body part from one vender will not fit right in another venders bodies. All the same?, but a little off. All the rewooding plans are made to cover all the T's. Rewooding a body is very easy if you go by the metal you have. I made a tube steel table jig just like the T frame without the front engine area. You have to have a center line from front to back to keep both sides the same from center. Next use your metal for your pillar placement on the sills. On the door side put your hinge pillar and latch pillar in your metal then take a measurement. Take that measurement and use it to mount your pillars to the sill that will get you going on the right track. The way a 13 is made you will have to due a lot fitting. The metal sides are not made as one part like the 1914 and later bodies. I have found two ways the venders made bodies. One built the sides on a flat table top jig. The other one used a heavy steel upright jig almost like the ones they use today in building bodies. If you want to rewood your body you will have to just take your time, because you will be doing a lot of fitting.
Very good information Leon.
What you have to say about building a T body is right on the money.
I have 21 low cowl touring and it has been a learning expeirence for me to be sure.
I had to replace a side panel and found that the sheet metal panel was a little different than the original.
I think its a good point to that the wood kit (if you use one and not make your own from plans) may not be made from patterns that are identical like the wood in your paticular car.
The same goes for the reproduction sheet metal panels that vendors make.
It depends which body maker they used to make their body metal patterns from.
You can see this by the differences in the kick panels in the low cowl era T's.
They will fit BUT you may have to do a little refitting here and there to get them to work.
Looking forward to seeing the wood plans and glad we could help. It was good talking with you and I hope we have a chance to put the plans to use in the future.
Also since i talked with you a while back about this I dont think you would mind me bringing it up here. I would like throw another good word out being its somewhat related to this.
For someone not wanting to tackle a complete re-wood and redo or a body to far gone to save. We recently received a new body from Ray Wells for a 13 and couldnt be happier! Details down to the hinges and latches are all really very nice.
is that your workshop?