Thanks for the help figuring out how to get pics on. Can you tell the year of the T by these pics?
Also,I have stripped everything off of the frame and am in the process of painting the frame. In the mean time I have started dis-assembling the front end.
First, I am planning on replacing the spindle bolts, bushings etc.. The threaded hole on the bottome of the axle that the spindle bolt goes into is stripped (non existant) does that mean that I need a new axle or can it be repaired.
Second, There is a good deal of play between the radius rod and the threaded pins. What is the allowable tolerance for the fit up?
I have a bunch more questions but will leave it for now,
Gramps had taken the springs apart and put that tape between the leafs. It looks bad and I plan to take the springs apart. Is there something other than the tape or should I just do a better job of hiding it?
You may want to try Teflon spray it's available from all the vendors, or possibly a hardware store. During the '60's, when you got your car Oil & Lubed they would spray your leaf springs with silicone, it would get on you tires & you had to be real careful at the first few stops or your wheels would spin.
Most of us use graphite slip paint between the leaves. It's available from most T parts vendors. Originally, Ford used black paint infused with graphite on the spring leaves.
It looks like a 26-27. It has the 26-27 large drum rear brakes and the 26-27 front spindles. The should be a number stamped into the passengers side of the frame rail on the top behind the firewall bracket.
I just did my front spring. I used a product called EZ Slide. It cost about $10 at Tractor Supply. I'm sure you could find this or something similar at a farm supply place. I toke the spring apart and cleaned the leaves. Painted the rub surfaces with the EZ Slide and regular black paint on the rest. Good Luck.
If the upper hole in the axle is OK, the lower one can be repaired with a "heli-coil" thread repair. The Heli-coil kits are available at industrial supply houses.
Do you know what the thread is on the axle?
Also, does anyone know how much play there should be between the holes in the radius rod and the threaded pin that the go over?
Your T seems to be made up of a bunch of different parts. The front and rear axle have already been correctly identified as being 26-7. The frame is 21-25 due to the stamped running board brackets and the narrow rear crossmember.
I have a question for you about the wishbone. Is the lower face of the holes where the wishbone mounts to the axle countersunk or flat.
If the holes are countersunk,it is 1922 or newer and you need the special tapered nut that matches the countersink and provides positive location for the assembly.
The early wishbone, 19-21, were not countersunk. This assembly used a flat washer and castle nut which did not provide for positive loacation and allowed the wishbone to move given the clearance between the perch thread and the hole in the wishbone.
I hop this is of some help.
The holes are countersunk and I do have the the nuts with the matching taper. I just wasn't sure it the holes should be a tight fit with the nuts off.
Since it seems that my frame is a combination of 26 rear and front ends, a 25 or older frame and a late 25 motor, how concerned do I have to be when ordering parts to get the year correct. Like parts for the e-brake or wiring?
The hole doesn't need to be tight. A little more clearance makes it easier to assemble. The countersink will take care of the locating. Just make sure you tighten them up really good and pin them. I have seen a lot of wishbone nuts work themselves loose, even when pinned. It has to do with to much paint in the taper and on the nut.
The threads on the bottom of the spindle bolt hole in the axle are national fine.
What body do you intend to use on this chassis? As to your question of ordering parts, you will need to know the year of the components you have on the car. Most parts are interchangeable, but there are some areas that need special attention.
For instance, the e-brake parts will have to be ordered as 26-7, because that is the year of the axle assembly. This includes the brake rods. The frame will not accept a 26-27 body very well, because the rear crossmember and some of the body mounting brackets are not right.
If you want to discuss it in more detail, give me a call at 608-873-4579.
The date of a '21-25 frame may be narrowed down a little.
The low hood types had a round hole for the front hood clip.
With the introduction of the high hood in mid-'23 this hole was elongated somewhat so the hood clip could be installed at a slight outward angle to accommodate the wider angle of the hood.
The handbrake lever quadrant was changed in 1925. Earlier versions were attached with 4 rivets; the two-rivet attachment was carried through the end of production.
Originally the wishbone came with a bolt hole size to just allow clearance for the perch / bolt to go through. Down here in dirt road country in the SW, 99% that I have seen, the bolt holes are now beat / wallered out way oversize. I had wondered why because they were still pinned and Dave gives a good answer. I have had to look through many to find one really good one. Billy Key
Stevens made a repair kit for front axles. It came with inserts for the repair, and special drills and taps for boring out the old hole. Their are a few guys in the club that have these, you will just have to find one. Also, if you can't find one remember the threads only go up from the bottom 2/3rd's of the way. The remainder of the hole is a pilot for the spindle bolt. Some of the reproduction spindle bolts I've seen are not made correctly to work in this manner. That is why I always use NOS spindle bolts.
thanks for posting the info on that hood clip hole size for the 22/23 changeover, goes to show you learn something new every day, and I havn't even got out of bed yet !
Used the search function and found what I was looking for.I tried to go to tractor supply to get the paint mentioned above,I had the name wrong,I was asking for "slip Coat"ooops.I will try again later.
Well a freind picked me up a spray can of it today for 5 bucks.so I will paint my springs with it as soon as I get it tore back apart.
I want to thank you also for posting the pics of the hood clip hole size. My frame is deffinitly a 25 frame, however one problem I have is that some one, it seems, has drilled out some of the rivits holding the front cross member in place. Now the bolts they have used inhibit the use of the correct mounting bolts for the radiator. Disassembly and assembly is like an old Chinese Puzzel, you have to follow a specific order. Your pictures show rivits. Is that standard? Any thoughts on going back to the rivit program?
The thread on the lower king pin hole in the axle is 1/2"-20 SAE. The picture is the T-202A original axle (the scan was too dark on my copy of the T-202B axle to see the numbers).
The earlier statement about it being "national fine" is just about right. The threads per inch are the same as the SAE thread; not certain if there is any difference to worry about. The national standard was adopted later. You will find some threads used on the Model T are no longer standard, or readily available.
Tom (Detroit, Piquette Ts / Casual Ts)
You should definitely get the bolts out of the front crossmember. They were all riveted from the factory. Rivets are available, and it takes a lot of patience to get them in correctly. Heat works well for the rivets, but they can also be done cold.