Rusty Water

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2005: Rusty Water
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim McDermaid on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 05:25 pm:

As the temperatures here in warm sunny Phoenix have been dipping down around 26 degrees recently, I have been draining the water out of the 22 T at night..

The first batch was quite rusty although through successive refills it is running out clearer. (The car cools flawlessly.)

I had installed the Red Rubber hose with the original type clamps when I replaced the radiator a couple of years ago but switched back to worm drive clamps and black hoses as I can’t seem to get the red hoses to seal.

I should mention that I am using a piece of copper pipe in place of the steel pipe that is in the water inlet path as this seemed to be a big source of rust in the past.

My goal is to get a light mix of antifreeze in the radiator through the remaining cold months.

Any thoughts from the experts?

Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Weir on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 06:59 pm:

Jim; I prefer useing a 50% mixture of a good antifreeze (Prestone or similar) all year long. This will keep rust and most galvanic reactions under control. If you don't like antifreeze, mix a half cup of soluble oil with distilled water to keep the rust in check. Bars Leak is mostly soluble oil and will work also.

Sincerely

Jim Weir


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce Peterson on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 07:04 pm:

One thing about Bars leak - it plugs passages in the radiator and settles all through the block. Just use a gallon of anti freeze and the rest water (preferably distilled). Should protect you down to 0 degrees F.

Royce


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Alex Alongi on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 07:08 pm:

Jim,

The temp here in San Diego has been getting into the low 30's (no cloud cover to keep the heat in) I use about 25% Prestone with distilled water & have had no trouble, just don't use the new stuff, just plain old Prestone (probably a couple bottles of cheap vodka would work as well).

You're going to several answers here, and they'll all work, especially from folks who live where it really gets cold.

Alex


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 08:51 pm:

You need to use rust inhibator to keep the block and head from rusting. It will get quite expensive if you drain it every night. you could save it and pour it back in, but the antifreeze is a good way to do it. I use 50 50 antifreeze and distilled water all year around. This has the rust inhibator in it and it also boils at a higher temperature, so is good for freezing and also boiling. Works very well. Unless you are in a soft water area, I highly recommend distilled water.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mick on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 08:54 pm:

Hi Jim,
I also had the same leak problems with the new red hoses. it seems that when tightened the clamp would crease a spot where there clamp comes together. This would usually leak out of this pinch point when cooling down, no matter how tight you made the clamp. A little dab of the acetic acid cure silicone (the one that smells like vinegar)in and around the end lip did the trick. The other popular silicone is also moisture cure but uses oxime to cure..this is not as good in my opinion.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Doug Money on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 11:22 pm:

John Regan has a fix for the leaky clamps. He says to install the vintage clamps loosely in the middle of the hose and then the worm clamps in place to seal the hose. After warming the engine up thoroughly a few times remove the worm clamps and slide the vintage clamps into place. The worm clamps seal the hose and the vintage clamps keep it sealed after that. I intend to try it with the new hoses on my car.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Noel Keefer on Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 12:43 am:

Barrs leak is specified for Jaguars by the factory. Almost all who have had heating problems and disassembled the cooling system have found Barrs deposited in the tubes and low spots. It is tough to get removed.

As a result no knowlegable Jaguar owner will ever use Barrs in the cooling system of his Jaguar.
This IMHO.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Frink on Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 01:44 am:

Napa carries soluble oil.
Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Lawthers on Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 11:26 am:

Jim,
I live in the High Desert north of Los Angeles where the temps have been going down to five to ten degrees at night. Although I have the car in an insulated garage, I ended up putting about 20% anit-freeze mix with distilled water and water wetter. I usually run 100% distilled water with water wetter only.

As far as the red hoses leaking, mine also leaked when I first replaced the old hoses. I had tightened them up rather loosely at first, and after a couple of drives, tightened them up real snug. So far, so good. No leaks at this time.

Tom L


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Paul on Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 11:33 am:

Surprized that nobody else has chimed in here, but, when red rubber hoses were the norm, mechanics used gasket shellac on the inside of the hose joint to seal the hose. Maybe this isn't an old problem, just a solution that's been forgotten?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By VRay on Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 06:39 pm:

I use 50/50 mix of anti freeze and DI water. Add some more to top ff to the over flow occasionally as it adds anti corrosion stuff to the mix. About every 2 years it gets drained and refilled. I only need to protect the engine from corrosion not freezing. Also I use the red rubber hose, I just added a little grease to the connection, slide it on and clamped it in place.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim McDermaid on Wednesday, January 24, 2007 - 12:03 pm:

Thanks for all the advice

I should mention that I monitor the temperature very carefully and the car is in an enclosed garage and covered over and the daytime temperature gets up to the 60's normally around here (Phoenix AZ).

I'm always mindfull of a friend who was showing off his newly constructed, heated garage (In Utah)and had just painted the floor. As the paint was still tacky at bed time he left his totally original and perfect 1932 Ford V-8 Roadster parked outside for the night.

It got really cold that night; big cracks were created in both aluminum heads that had never been off the car. Aluminum heads don't much like to come off especially after abuse.

Now that my hose combination is not leaking I plan to re-fill with a light mix of antifreeze.

Part of the problem with the red hoses is that they would squirm out from under the worm drive clamps I tried to use last weekend. I now have red on the inlet and an old black hose on the outlet and no water under the car.

I have a basic dislike for antifreeze as it is corrosive when it hits air; Ethylene Glycol has a smaller molecule than water which is why it seeps out of a sealed Mason Jar :-)

Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Wednesday, January 24, 2007 - 09:07 pm:

If those hoses are "squirming out" you must have a very flexible motor mount or radiator mount! I have them on 2 26 T's and use the original wire type clamps with no problem. I have also used the worm type clamps with no problem. The hose should be long enough to go about 1 1/2 inches or more onto the fitting and the clamp should be toward the inner edge of the fitting. That would be 1/2 or more inches from the end of the hose. Clamp enough to keep it from leaking, and check often. If it leaks tighten a bit more. You don't have to over tighten. You might have some rust pits in the iron fittings and these will cause leaks. You can fill with either atv or non hardening permatex.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce Peterson on Wednesday, January 24, 2007 - 09:46 pm:

I have red hoses on both cars with original style clamps. No leaks. Where's the problem? Maybe you have a pitted water neck or outlet? You can smear a bit of silicone RTV on the inside of the hose before installing it and then you won't have leaks. The silicone will fill the pits for a very tight seal.

Royce


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