I tried to solder the seal where the metal (aluminum I believe) is welded and riveted to the gas tank. Not the brass threads. It does not leaks around the thread. Solder isn't sticking. Do they make a liquid solder? I have the E Z turn lubricant, but that's only for threads, I believe? Thanks for your help. Bob
No liquid solder but try J and B Weld. That stuff will seal and hold anything. Be sure the area is dry before you apply..
Anyone still have those photos of the 1911 Ford that had a leaky gas tank last year?
Gas is nothing to play with, do the repair right!
Yes they make liquid solder. It is a glue with some metallic particles in it for electricity transmission. Very poor gluing and very poor electrical transmission. Good for low amperage cold soldered joints for volume controls and the like. Not good to hold things together.
There used to be a liquid solder, may still be, but it's bascially metallic Elmer's. J & B Weld's probably your best bet, done right it will fix a cracked head.
I've been looking for soldering paste which is real silver/lead solder in a tube, haven't seen in a long time & people give me a strange look when I ask for it, squeeze a little on a scrubbed copper joint put it together & zap with a propane torch perfect seal, Used it on a water heater in '82 lasted til 2004 & it was the tank that went not the pipes. Also used it make patches, a little sheet copper & paste.
Of course gas tanks & torches (unless totally flushed & dried) are not a great idea you may
end up in several counties.
I really have to start using this computer.
There is some stuff for sealing leaking gas tanks. Check the parts stores. Can also rub a bar of Ivory soap on it. Pre WW II repair trick.
The secret to making solder stick is to have both parts totally clean and at the temperature that solder melts, which is about 360 to 370 degrees, depending on the lead to tin ratio.
The flux does the cleaning, but getting large parts hot enough with a small iron is not easy.
Using a torch on a gas tank sometimes is not healthy, unless all gas and fumes have been completely removed.
I think my Father-in-Law used this stuff, he'd flush out the the tank with solvent, let it dryout for a about a week then put the "stuff" in, slosh it around real good & let it sit for about another week, it would create a liner in the tank.
I use a product by Ames Plum-Loy. 50/50 solder-n-flux paste. Works great for sweat soldering. I am not sure, but I think McMaster-Carr sells it. Made by Ames Metal Products, Chicago 9, IL.
I gas weld them but I leave the hole vented and fill tank with water. you might get an occasional "whoof",but that's all. You have to get that flange real clean and fairly hot to get a seal. I'm using a solder flux paste out of a place in Texas.
Are new tanks still less than $120? What's it worth when your garage burns to the ground with all your stuff inside?
Where do you get tanks for the 26-27 that fit in the cowl? I may have access to a 26 body but it doesn't have a tank.
New tanks run from about $140 to $220 now, but still well worth the cost and very well made yet. The 1926-1927 tanks do not appear to be reproduced.
I would spend $150 for a new one, before I would spend $50 to have an old one repaired.
The new ones come clean and without any varnish or sludge included to stop up your carb and give you grief on a tour.
Anyone know why they do not make the 26-27 tanks?
Travis E. Towle
Check the Yellow pages under sheet metal work, I know here there's places that make custom gas tanks, face it, ain't rocket science.
We used to discharge a fire extinguisher into fuel tanks before welding them....I've still got the scars.
There is a place in Danville Il. that makes them from plastic. I don't have their contact info though.