Anyone out there had any experience repairing axles.
One of mine is just plain worn out, the bearing surface at the wheel end is way undersized and tapered. The other axle looks ok, except there is a big piece missing on the drive side of the keyway,...I'm guessing it was driven with the axle nut loose at some time. I am wondering if it is feasable to weld and machine a new key way?

Dave; I would not try it. Other axles are available alot cheaper than a mistake that leads to an accident.

Sincerely

Jim Weir

Dave,
Does your axle look anything like the pictures in this thread? If so, that information may help you.
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/24550.html?1171153117
Dave

My advice would be to replace them both while it is apart. Good used ones are plentiful and cheap. There would be nothing like breaking the axle, destroy the hub & wheel, bend the fender, ruin the backing plate, overrev the motor, break the crankshaft, and have a good old fashioned car accident! Then after a week in the hospital, start all over again!

I know I am exagerating, but most tragic things start from simple problems. Be Safe, Paul

Good used axles, in my opinion, are not plentiful. I bought a pile of 30 used axles plus 6 complete rearends and only 1, yes ONE was good. Most axles have too much wear on the axle surfaces. If the measure below 1.60, use them as tent stakes or get floating hubs. I would not repair any axle. I don't know how the new ones are, but that is an option.

If an axle has good threads and a good keyway it can be used with floating hubs. I didn't have any axles with good bearing surfaces to use in my speedster so I made some floating hubs and used my best bad axles. No trouble. Obviously, the inner bearing surface has to be good but then it usually is.

If a keyway is slightly spread open with no cracks propagating from the corners at the inner end then it can be widened slightly until the keyslot walls clean up. You will then need to make a stepped key that's wider at the bottom for the axle and standard at the top for the hub.
McMaster Carr carries stepped keystock for just this purpose but I prefer to make my own so I don't have to cut away any more than is necessary to square up the keyway. I've done this for cars that aren't as plentiful as a model T where other axles are extinct. Cutting a new keyway 180 degrees opposite is NOT an option. Neither is welding or slipping in narrow little shims.

Jerry how do you make the floating hubs?

Doug,

My floating hubs are basically the same thing Texas T Parts or any other supplier sells. The difference is I made them myself.

They are made up of three parts.
1. A slug of steel that slips into the axle housing, replacing the roller bearing, and protruding with a diameter that a ball bearing slips over. The slug also has a hole in it for the axle to pass through and for a seal.

2. The ball bearing.

3. A ring machined to fit over the ball bearing closely and to attach to the hub inside the parking brake drum. The wheel bolts are used to attach the ring to the hub.

That's roughly it.