Anybody else have an exhaust manifold, that when the gland is firmly in the block and manifold in the #1 exhaust Port (closest to radiator), the #4 exhaust hole (firewall side) is 1/4" off? When I removed the manifolds from this car, only the intake manifold had the glands installed. There were Two(2) gaskets, which I thought was odd. They were white cloth-like material, very dry and flaky (asbestos, I assume), and not salvagable. So, I searched under the sofa cushions, and under the floormats in my F-350, and found the $1.95 I needed for a gasket set from Snyders. Gaskets fit fine, but the exhaust holes on the manifold don't line up? What gives? Is it a Model A manifold? The gaskets line up perfectly with the block, and the intake manifold fits perfectly. No matter what combination I tried with the exhaust manifold, I couldn't get the glands for two holes in at the same time. (By glands, I'm talking about the split rings that stick out of the recessed portion of the manifolds and/or the engine block) Anybody?

Michael, is it a new manifold? If it's an older one, they warp a little at the rear hole due to the heating and cooling. Those asbestos gaskets are made just for that purpose - a manifold that doesn't line up.

New repop manifolds can be had for $85.00 (that's what I did). If you don't want to spring for a new manifold, get the copper clad gaskets (Lang's part # 3063-MC). They usually work OK.

Bob

Look at the Long Beach Model T Club web site > lbmtc.com < and look up straightening an exhaust manifold in the technical section. There is a good picture story of how to do it. It costs less to make the jig than to purchase a new one and you can straighten as many as you want all day long once you have the jig made.

The manifold is perfectly flat. I put a machinist level on it, and there is 0% of warpage. It just seems to have been elongated? As far as I know, it's the original manifold. The car has only had 3 owners, before me. It's a 1915 Touring Model.

whoops... Didn't finish the thought. Crazy here at work today. My manifold is flat, it's just the holes seem to progressively be off by 1/16" or so. If #1 is in tight, #2 misses by 1/16", #3 misses by 1/8", etc... [okay, that doesn't add up to 1/4" as my first post indicated, but I didn't use a caliper or anything. ;-) ] So, I had a new set of gaskets, got it close, and cinched it down. Torque specs? To keep the tight, I used a Ten inch, 9/16" Craftsman combination wrench, with a good 'ummph'. 80 lbs? I'll check back, but for now, I think the asbestos gaskets will suffice. Thanks Bob! I now need to replace my copper fuel line, with a stainless one I'm told. I might get this thing running sometime this millenium.

That's how manifolds warp. The mating surfaces stay flat but the manifold arches up like a Halloween cat bringing the ports out of alignment. You check this holding a straight edge along the four ports. You will see, when you line up the two end holes, that the two center holes will be located above the edge.

80 lbs. is too much torque for manifold nuts. 40 would be more like it. Tighten the nuts progressively until the gaskets are nicely compressed and all nuts are approx. the same tight.

Note that sometimes the warp is so excessive that the asbestos type gaskets can't make up for the misalignment. I would really suggest you get a good old or new manifold. Do it right and do it once.

I had the problem gauging my manifold on my 15 Touring as Michael. When I looked at it, it appeared fine, but when gauged by a fellow club member as Jerry described, my manifold was quite warped. I spent the $90 on a new one and figure I'll be said and done with it and won't have to worry about it.

Chris.

I set one of mine on a flat steel table at the local auto machine shop. The 2 center ports were a quarter inch high. We put a C clamp on the top between the ports and put light pressure on it. We then heated it cherry red between the center 2 ports and S-L-O-W-L-Y tightenned the C clamp down until the center ports were also on the table. We left it to cool before removing the clamp. All 4 rings and glands mated perfectly with the block! I realize the jig would be easier and would prevent misalignment of the faces, but we didn't have one and didn't take the time to make one. I've thought about making a jig and repairing the half dozen others that I have that are all bent. Maybe sell them on T-bay!
Noel

The problem that usually happens is not the flat surface that mates the engine being warped, but that the 4 holes are not in a straight line. If you hold a straightedge against the flat surface you will find that when you line up the bottom of 1 and 4 2 and 3 will be higher. Usually one and two or maybe one,two and 3 are in pretty good alignment, but 4 is lower. There is a way to straighten the manifold, and if you look at the older posts you will see how it's done, or maybe someone in your local club has made the tools to do it. It's worth a try, the worst thing that can happen is to crack the manifold and then you will need to replace it.
Norm

Michael -- Virtually all the old ones are warped "like a cat's back", as was mentioned above. I checked 15 of them at Chickasha last year before giving up and buying a new one. The bent ones can be straightened; you can spend the time or spend the money to get a good one -- your choice.

Mike.

If you are lucky to find a manifold that the ports are straight,the threads will be shot.

Here's a pic of how to check for a warped manifold. Notice how #2 and #3 don't line up anymore. Hey Chris, was this your old manifold?

Doug, if that is a pic from the rearend rebuild then it certainly is.

Chris

Never even thought to check to see if it was warped top to bottom. Guess that why I'm an electrician?

My dad must have 20 or 30 of them, but if he gives me one, he'll only have 19 or 29. So, I just ordered a new one from Langs. I'd hate to get all this paint work done, and have exhaust dust cover it all up. This way, I can use the glands, copper rings and asbestos gaskets I've already purchased.

Thanks to everyone, for the suggestions, and help. I love this Forum!

Forget the asbestos gasket! Just use the glands and copper rings. They will keep your exhaust pipe on the straight path. That is they will help keep it from warping again. Mine 21 had the org glands and it was still nice and straight.
MarkG