Switch to Terminal Block Loom

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2005: Switch to Terminal Block Loom
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Tuesday, April 10, 2007 - 11:45 am:

I recently found a NOS touring and roadster switch to terminal block loom with the Ford script still attached. To my knowledge, no one is making these. They are shorter than the closed car looms. What was really interesting I thought, is the rubber sleeves on the terminals at the switch. There aren't any at the terminal block.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Joseph Wayne Rudzik on Tuesday, April 10, 2007 - 12:14 pm:

Things get crowded at the switch terminals, especially on my '26. You need the rubber insulation that is provided.
My new switch to terminal block has the rubber protectors and the repo Ford script medalion.

Joe R.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kenneth H. Todd on Tuesday, April 10, 2007 - 01:36 pm:

I don't think anyone is capable of making NOS wire sets, or anything else NOS either.
Reproductions are available from the vendors, P/N 5042.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Green - So Cal on Tuesday, April 10, 2007 - 05:36 pm:

Larry, is the yellow with black tracer wire on your NOS loom 12 gauge wire? On my repro only the solid yellow wire is 12 gauge, everything else is either 14 or 16 gauge.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Tuesday, April 10, 2007 - 10:06 pm:

The original looms used 12 Ga for ALL of the yel/black tracer wires but for some reason the repro looms use 14 ga for those wires. They run from the cutout to the terminal block and from the terminal block to the ignition switch and also a short one from the ignition switch to the ammeter. All 3 of those are in fact 14 Ga and SHOULD be 12 Ga like the heavy yellow wires from the starter switch to the terminal block and from the terminal block to the ammeter. I made the loom maker aware of this about 4 month ago. Don't know if he has fixed his assembly yet or if he plans to. It is NOT a VITAL issue but it WOULD help with voltage regulation under heavy load and brigher lights.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Tuesday, April 10, 2007 - 10:44 pm:

The yellow with black tracer is pretty heavy. I don't know my gauges that well, but it is heavier than the repros. When I was rewiring my '25 I bought a set of "show quality" loom set from a well known supplier, and to say the least, it was crap. The wires didn't come out in the right places, and the brading was inferior. I had to have all the looms reproduced locally at great expense, but at least now they are right.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Green - So Cal on Wednesday, April 11, 2007 - 02:07 pm:

Thanks Larry. The reason that I asked is because I have found that when using the Funprojects VR, after changing all wires in the yellow with black tracer circuit to 12 gauge, I was able to get MUCH better charging from the generator with the 3rd brush set at a very low setting.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Wednesday, April 11, 2007 - 06:13 pm:

Yep that is exactly what I would expect to happen. You will also have slightly higher voltage to your lights when the engine is running above about 20 MPH.


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