I took my muffler apart yesterday and noticed the two baffles had their holes at the exhaust end of the muffler. Hmmmm . . . Should not the inner baffle holes be at the exhaust end, the outer baffle holes be at the intake end. so that the flow would then be like a letter "S". Any thoughts?
Ross
I recently put a repop muffler on my '26 roadster and gave up as the crimp didn't hold the thing together.
Also, my baffle pipes were placed in the muffler with the holes at the outlet end like yours.
All my old mufflers had the small inlet pipe with the holes to the rear, the next size pipe with the holes to the front and then the large outside pipe to capture and direct the spent gases out the high flow opening.
All of these old ones worked great that way and I have seen some pictures that showed them put together like that.
Hope this helps you.
Joe R.
Knowing the year of your T would be a help. The last design muffler was introduced in 1921. They work quite well when in good condition. The problem is NO ONE is reproducing this part correctly. I have thought about it, but it's a lot of work, and I'm too busy now. Ford eliminated the inner shell with the new design muffler, and the exhaust pipe is actually part of the muffler. There are four holes at the rear of the exhaust pipe. Two are for the carriage bolt retainer, and the front two are for exhaust gas to escape to the second shell. The big problem is replacing the brass manifold nut. Sometimes you can get them over the bead, and sometimes you can't. It would be nice if someone in the club that has lots of cash would take on this project. It would benefit a lot of us. The repro muffler that sort of looks like original is only so so, and if you are to use one, you really don't have an authentic T.
I have an orginal setup that was on the 21 when I got it. Leaks about the same as the repo setup. I have been putting Krol(sp)on the nut (the one that holds the shells together) to get it off. I will try heat when I get to that part of the restoration. It would make sence that the small inner pipe would have the holes at the tail end and middle pipe at the front as the exaust would have to comeback on its self to get to the hole if it were the other way round.
I have parts of a late muffler on the shelf in my shop. Noticed that the end pieces were made of two layers of sheet metal stamped together. Anyone else seen this?
Thanks, all. I have a 1914 restored in New Zealand, Has cast(?)ends. I have assembled with inner baffle holes at front, and second baffle holes at back. Seams to make the most sense.
Thanks Phil, hopefully now I'll be a little quieter now ;o))
Mine fell apart a few times. I did a short weld at both the front and at the back. No more problems.
I think Henry made it so it could be disassembled so you could clean out carbon. I haven't had a carbon problem. When he made the Model A he welded the entire muffler together.
Norm
My outer shell is a section of titanium tube I got at Boeing Surplus. Never had a problrm.
Be_Zero_Be
Well I bought a new muffler out of the catalog back in 05 and that thing has done fell apart and is hanging and flopping under the truck and rattles like crazy.
I am fiqureing on takeing it off and seeing if I cant weld it back together.It werent exspensive,but it just annoyes me it fell apart and aint but 3 years old or so.
The late muffler ends were indeed made of two pieces of fender scrap. I don't know if they are fused together or not, but I've never seen one come apart. I have two styles of carriage bolt retainers. One is flat with a square hole in it, and the other is channel with a square hole.