Valve opening

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2005: Valve opening
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Shirley on Tuesday, May 22, 2007 - 05:45 am:

The valve opening height on my used cam is between .229 and .231 with # 4 exhust at .226 this is mesured useing a dial indecator with intakes set at 10 and exhust at 12. What could I expect if I sent the cam off and had it ground? I'm not building a hot rod but the stock motor is going in a center door so I'll need all the power I can get. And one more question, did a Ford mechanic make more for working on a center door? I have owned T's for 40+ years and have always enjoye working on them. But this center door is not much fun to work on. The stuff that takes just a few moments in a touring or even a coup takes twice as long to get to in this little car.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger K on Tuesday, May 22, 2007 - 06:55 am:

Check out the Cam project at the Tulsa Model T club's website.
http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/MTFCTulsa/Cams/background.htm
http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/MTFCTulsa/Cams/stock_vs_regrind.htm

Typically reground cams has too long intake duration, giving less power for climbing hills with a heavy T like yours.
You may be better off with your old cam or finding another better stock camshaft.

The cam project resulted in the reproduction of improved stock and 280 lift cams from stipe, the very best for your engine you can find for 360 dollars (if you already have a z head)
http://www.specialtymotorcams.com/pages/camshafts.html

I wonder if Stipe's own regrinds has been reengineered with less intake duration since the cam project - or if the smaller base circle on a reground cam makes it impossible to get the cam just right again?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem on Tuesday, May 22, 2007 - 08:59 am:

The standard lift is .250. You are measuring roughly .230 actual lift at the valves. The way you measure lift on the cam itself would be to measure the rise from the "heel" to the "toe" and you would hope to see .250. However, since you are measuring the lift not on the cam but at the valve, you should add the .010 & .012 clearances to your measured values. Therefore, the actual lift of your cam would be .240-.242. Not so awfully bad for an old cam.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth Harbuck on Tuesday, May 22, 2007 - 09:09 am:

Bob,

In my opinion, the cam will be fine. If your centerdoor was mine, I'd use that camshaft with the clearances you have chosen, and I'd fit a Z-head and aluminum low-compression pistons if not already fitted.

The high-compression head will do more for performance, in my opinion.

Seth
Shreveport, LA


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Houston on Tuesday, May 22, 2007 - 09:19 am:

Bob,if max power (low rpm torque)is your goal, the very best is the Stipe 250 cam.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Gould on Tuesday, May 22, 2007 - 10:04 am:

That's as good a used cam as I have seen. Typically the points of the lobes are worn a bunch even if the journals show little wear. I agree with Fred re the 250 Stipe cam. I have two installed in various cars and they perform very well. I was disappointed in the 280 since I experienced a noticeable drop off in low end performance.


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