I have modified a couple of oil side lamps using LED marker lights on the rear of my non starter 17. I use toggle switches for right and left.
My question: How can I get the flasher to work? I was told by NAPA that I had to have a flasher designed to operate LED's. O.K. I bought one for $22.00 and connected it. The light does not flash and is dimmer than when connected direct.
I'm using a brand new 12 volt RV battery to operate these lights. The flasher is 2 pole marked X and L which I take to be Power and Load to be connected in series. Correct?
Thanks in advance. Gary

Gary,

This is how I wired my blinker can for incandescent lights.



X is fed Plus voltage by the toggle switch and then the pulses go out the L connection. I don't show it, but I must have grounded the can somehow, so it knows what ground is.

Tom
Piquette Ts / Casual Ts

Here's a simpler version. It shows that you only need a single wire for each lamp. The ground circuit in a standard flasher is the bulb. This is why they stop flashing when the bulb burns out.

You should be using a solid state flasher made specifically for leds. The one I purchased for $14.95 from TMI led online will flash anything from a single led to any combination of lamps up to 32 amps. It also has a built in beeper to help you remember to turn the blinkers off!.

Thanks Tom, Fred & Ken. My setup is the same as Ken's but, instead of grounding, I connected the negative wire back to the lights and use 2 toggle switches for right and left.
When connected this way the flasher does not work and the light is considerably dimmer. I do have a solid state Grote flasher specifically for LED's. If I follow Ken's setup what do I do with the negative leads on the lights?

By the way I'm trying to do this using a 12 volt RV battery only without generator or alternator. Maybe thats the trouble.

Sounds like a bad ground or the positive lead is shorting to ground. Also, how do you have the two switches wired. The one in the diagram is a Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) with center OFF.

Ken: My switches are wired the same as the sketch and Y connected after the flasher. No blown fuse so I don't think shorting out is the problem. I tried connecting with only one switch connected and have the same result, the flasher does not fire and the light is dimmer. NOTE: Something I haven't done though is connecting the white wire from the flasher to ground. This could be the problem.

FYI I had a problem with erratic operation of a Hotronics turn signal assembly. The problem turned out to be the panel that I grounded the unit to was not a good ground (the panel under the seat and infront of the gas tank). A jumper wire to the frame solved it.

The "G" or ground terminal on the flasher must be grounded. You didn't mention which model you have but most of these flashers require at least 1-amp load to trigger.

This is model 44891 with a ground pigtail. The white wire must be attached to a good ground (battery negative).

Thanks once again to this forum and all who came to my rescue. Problem solved with your help. I do have the Grote model 44891 Ken, and did not know that white wire should go to negative. At better than $22.00 a pop I was reluctant to do much experimenting for fear of shorting it out. To bad they (Grote) don't include that kind of info with the unit for people with limited knowledge like me.
I bought it at NAPA and they were no help at all.