My Dad's steering wheel has a small crack near one of the mounting screw holes. I don't think it's a major problem as it doesn't go through, but I'd like to repair just in case. Do you have any recommendations on repairing the crack? I was thinking a typical 2-part epoxy but figured I'd seek your advice before I ruin it...

Thanks! Mike

I had one cracked in half. Drilled both ends and stuck a steel rod in it,with JB Weld . Clamped it overnight,sanded it off,and painted it. You couldn't tell it was ever broken. JB weld is a good wat to repair loose holes too.

I dont know if it does any good or not but I put some super glue in the cracks that the jb weld dont ooze into.

Jack, how'd you get the two halves to line up after drilling and installing the steel rod? I mean isn't it difficult to center the hole on each side so the two halves of the steering wheel line up after the rod is inserted? Maybe you drilled the holes oversize to allow wiggle room and set everything in JB Weld clamping it together in an aligned position until it dried.
I used the technique you speak of piecing a top bow together and it worked for me.

I never have seen a cross-section of a Model T steering wheel. I assumed there was already a steel rod going through for strength, like modern steering wheels, with the hard rubber cast around it, but it must be solid rubber or Jacks method would not have worked.

If I were to use Jack's method on a wheel that was broke clean in half (as you could not do this on a wheel with just one crack), I would use the following procedure:

1. Put the two halves of the steering wheel together correctly and mark the two halves AA and BB so when it come time to join them, you will join the correct halves together without confusion.
2. Drill opposing 1/4" holes each about *1 1/4" deep, with the bottom of each hole wallered out larger at the bottom than at the top, by carefully twisting the drill in a circular motion (*You can only drill as deep as the curvature of the wheel will allow without going through the outside edge. Another factor that will determine the depth of the hole is how close the break is to the spider attachment holes. Better that the break is between the attachment holes, for if the break is right at the attachment hole, this method will not work).
5. Cut two 2" *long pieces of 1/4" dia. all-thread. The threads would help to hold the anchor better than a smooth pin.
4. Clamp one steering wheel half into a bench clamp with the holes up,
5. Mix a liquid two part 5 minute epoxy (I believe it is Loctite that has this in a double tubed syringe at Lowes or Home Depot in the Paint Department),
6. Pour the epoxy mixture into the two holes of one half,
7. Imbed the two pieces of all-thread in the two epoxy filled holes of the one half, taking care to clean the epoxy that overflows the holes and making sure the all thread stays centered in the holes.
8. After cleaning off the overflowed epoxy, Try setting the other half onto the pins just to be sure the pins are at the correct angle to slide into the opposing holes and that the holes are deep enough to allow for a flush joining of the two joints. If the pins bottom out before the joints totally close, the hole will have to be carefully drilled a little deeper, until the joints totally meet up and close.
9. After the one half sets up, remove it from the bench clamp and set it aside.
10. Clamp the other half in the bench clamp with the holes up.
11. With a bar clamp or belt clamp at the ready, mix up another batch of epoxy and pour it in the two holes of the other half,
12. Join the two steering wheel halves together then clamp with the bar clamp (or belt clamp) taking care to keep the just poured half upright so the epoxy does not flow out taking care not to clamp the two halves together too tight, which could cause the whole thing to shatter. Also, make sure to clean off the overflowed epoxy before it sets up. Make sure the edges of the joined halves are tight and even with no visible joint or apparent unevenness.

Once it is all set up, the solid, epoxy filled, wallered out holes will act as bowtie shaped opposing wedges that would make the opposing anchors inpossible to pull out and if you do a good enough job whereby the joints are virtually invisible, no painting will be required. Jim

Richard,I just oversized hole to about 5/16 and filled it with epoxy. Jim,I didn't think about all that that long. Just did it. I only had one side to fix. The JB weld is slightly different color than original wheel,hence the paint. They are a challenge,but then a lot of this stuff is.

Jack, you mentioned in your most recent post that you "only had one side to fix". Since the steering wheel is just one ring of hard brittle rubber, how were you able to expose the opposing ends in order to drill them out and then get them far enough apart to insert a steel pin? When you said in your original posting that your steering wheel was cracked in half, I could envision how a repair of two halves could be made by drilling holes and inserting pins, but I can't imagine how it can be done on just one cracked joint. Jim

It aint hard to flex a wheel that is broke. Anytime I repair 1 I move the web around some and use new holes and screws.Fill the old screw holes with jb weld.
Another trick is if you aint happy with the looks of it,those 1 piece leather steering wheel covers fit very well over the wheel.The 1 on my TT has been repaired and works fine.A friend did it and instead of drilling holes,he made a slot and layed a nail I think in the slot and clamped it together and jbed it.

I just sprung them apart wide enough to drill. They are very brittle,so move them slowly. I figured I didn't have much to loose.

Yes, they are very hard and brittle and I'd be very reluctant to try pull one apart or twist flex one. I would almost be inclined to do an intentional controled break in order to have the opposing crack where I wanted it, between the spider attachment holes intead of at one and then have the two joint halves exposed for a more precise fit. Jim

Thanks for your tips above. I haven't used JB Weld before so I'll buy some and check it out. It's a small crack on the underside so if it shows a little it's no big deal. Glad to hear that it's repairable!