Trailer Loading

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2005: Trailer Loading
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Thomas on Saturday, October 06, 2007 - 09:18 pm:

Got my 25 coupe done. I'll post some pictures later. But my new question is trailer loading. I pick up my new enclosed trailer in a couple of weeks. It is an 8 x 16 with V nose Aluma. I got the barn doors and ramps. I didn't want a beavertail as I might use the trailer for other things and the beavertail won't allow me to load those other things with a fork lift. So with my limited driving experience I am concerned about driving it on and off the trailer. Are there any other options that you guys use to get the car in the trailer? Anybody use a winch, or rails to guide the wheels in the trailer? I am looking for ideas if you got any! Thanks! Mike Thomas


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A. Golden on Saturday, October 06, 2007 - 09:24 pm:

Did you get an extra tall trailer? Your T might scrape the roof on a standard height trailer.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Robb on Saturday, October 06, 2007 - 09:39 pm:

Mike,
I have to load my Speedster on the trailer backward, or else I have too much tongue weight. I use an electric windlass from JC Whitney to pull it up onto the trailer because it has a remote switch on a long wire that makes it easy.
I drive it off, and have never had a problem doing that - but James A is right - if you don't have the headroom necessary, it's a problem.
Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Cascisa in Poulsbo, WA on Saturday, October 06, 2007 - 11:24 pm:

Mike,

Always try to have a second set of eyes watching as you drive on or off. Also do what most people fail to do - place a set of adjustable height jack stands under the rear of the trailer (usually at the ramp attach point). If you don't, the weight of the car when it is behind the trailer axels is trying to rip the hitch off of the ball. It can ruin your day if the hitch lets loose.

The main thing is, Do Not be in a hurry. After a couple of times loading and unloading the blood will return to your knuckles and you will develop a solid, safe routine.

Be_Zero_Be


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Loving on Sunday, October 07, 2007 - 08:43 am:

My trailer is a 7 X 14, ramp door. It's a close fit, I have a guide stripe on the ramp that I follow driving in, inside I have a 2 X 4 that is hinged to the left wall that I use as a guide. There are stop blocks at the front. I've never had any problems. I will admit that it is easier to put my '10 touring in than it is to get the '23 roadster in. The doors make it harder to lean over the side to see where the front wheel is.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick - (2) '26's - Bartow, FL on Sunday, October 07, 2007 - 09:32 am:

The danger in loading a Model T onto a trailer is that you must get it up to speed enough to get up the ramps and then immediately stop it once it is up on the trailer. As you know, the brakes are not all that dependable for such a tricky operation and when you figure in such factors as Murphy's law, forgetting what pedal does what and outright panic, it changes from becomes a tricky operation to an outright dangerous one. Therefore the safest way is to eliminate these factors by mounting a 12 Volt 1500 lb capacity electric cable winch, on the floor at the front of your trailer and pull your T into the trailer backward. That way, when you are ready to off load, you just start it and drive it off. You can permanently run the wire of the winch along the wall so that the controls are just inside the door. Make sure the back of the trailer is supported by blocks before driving the Model T on. Some trailers will lift up on the tongue when downward weight is applied at the door and if there are not blocks to support it, the trailer could lift up the back of the hauling vehicle or come off the tongue altogether. Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Jeffrey Cole on Sunday, October 07, 2007 - 09:34 am:

I parked my truck behind my flat bed trailer and determined the center of the wheels and marked the ramps with tape and when loading i keep the wheels on that.Once I messed around and got the touge wieght like I wanted it,I used the positive battery post as a mark on the truck and put a piece of tape on the trailer fender.Now I dont have to worry about that.
My dad insist that I should use blocks under the back of the trailer to take the strain off the hitch and tow vehical when loading and it does help with that.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ricks - Surf City on Sunday, October 07, 2007 - 10:25 am:

Here's the kind of thing that happens if you don't have the back of the trailer blocked and wheels chocked.

Wheel chocks should be standard equipment on every Model T.

Trailers and towing would be a good subject for MTFCA video production.

rdr


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Robb on Sunday, October 07, 2007 - 10:34 am:

Mike,
Another little trick is to back your trailer into your driveway (if your driveway has a slope) until the rear of the trailer is as close to the ground as it is going to get, stop, and then the trailer's ramps will be almost level, making it easier to drive or winch the car on or off.
Be careful when winching the car backwards. The front wheels tend to turn by themselves. I put a bungee cord to hold the steering wheel straight when winching (or pushing) the car backward onto the trailer.
Like Bob in Poulsbo said, a couple of times, and it'll come easily to you.
Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Frank Harris on Sunday, October 07, 2007 - 10:58 am:

When backing out you can snag a hubcap on the ramp control wires on either side. Use good D-rings in the floor and have them placed where you want them, not where they think they should go.

Purchase good cargo belts that clip onto D-rings with snap locks, not the cheap ones with open hooks. Cross the belts in an X, not straight down.

Paint the floor with epoxy paint before you put the car in there for the first time. Fasten a deep drip pan under the motor area with four screws and fender washers. It makes cleanup easier. Paint the walls with a good primer and then gloss white for easy clean up and good visibility inside the trailer in the dark with nothing but that little dome light.

Have the trailer company install your winch. They will put the battery in there with a proper circuits so that your tow vehicle will keep the battery charged. There is nothing worse than a winch with a dead battery.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Cascisa in Poulsbo, WA on Sunday, October 07, 2007 - 11:44 am:

Search the internet for "trailer towing safety"

There are dozens of safety articles there and some videos also.

Be_Zero_Be


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Thomas on Sunday, October 07, 2007 - 12:37 pm:

Great ideas guys! My trailer is custom built by Aluma. It is 7.5 feet high with a 7 foot high door. I specified rear jacks, ramps, 96 inch wide door. What do you guys use for wheel chocks? And what is an electric windlass? The extra battery sounded good. Thanks! Mike Thomas


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ricks - Surf City on Sunday, October 07, 2007 - 12:50 pm:

This is one of the few articles ever written on wheel chocks:

http://www.graybeardaviation.com/safety/chock.html


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Robb on Sunday, October 07, 2007 - 08:02 pm:

Mike,
A windlass is merely a drum with a length of cable. The drum is powered by an electric motor for launching, hauling, pulling stumps, any number of jobs - hook it up, press a button , and SHAZAM! the car rolls onto the trailer!
I use an electric windlass from JC Whitney Co. (jcwhitney.com) that has a 15-foot power cord so that you can attach it to the tow vehicle's battery, thereby eliminating a battery on the trailer. It also has a 10-foot remote control switch, so that you can ride the car onto the trailer if you'd like, or just stand by and watch.
It also will work (quite well, incidently) by hand cranking.
It bolts on, and can be removed from its mounting bracket if need be. Simple, effective, practical, virtually maintenence-free.
Check it out at JCWhitney.com, their part number: MS737656.
Or...you could just drive your T.
Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harvey Decker on Sunday, October 07, 2007 - 08:43 pm:

Hello Bob:
Regarding the J C Whitney winch. Can you give me the approx. measurements of the winch. I was thinking of mounting it in a job box? And who is the manufacture of it? If you know?
Thanks Harvey .....


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Nelson Jones on Sunday, October 07, 2007 - 10:14 pm:

When I finished my 25 oak bodied panel I built a custom trailer for it. I also made metel channels I bolted to the floor & to the ramp door. I then installed a large convex mirror to the ceiling of the trailer so as I drove upon the ramp door I could see the wheel go into the tracks & it will go in like a railroad car> then I hook my 1500# winch to the front axle & pull it up to the stops in the tracks. The T is always in the same spot so my hitch weight is always the same. I d not drive my car in for the reason mentioned about the brakes & the natural reaction to sometimes push the clutch in to stop like you would with a stick shift. I also mounted a battery in the front of my trailer to operate the winch & also to activate my breakaway switch. My tow vehicle charges the battery & when it is not used for awhile I plug a 2amp charger to the battery. I can also unbolt my ramps & remove them if I want to use the trailer for another purpose.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harvey Decker on Monday, October 08, 2007 - 09:45 am:

Nelson:
Thanks for the input.

Harvey ....


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Robb on Monday, October 08, 2007 - 11:41 am:

Harvey,
The windlass from JC Whitney is 10" wide X 10" long X 8" high and has 30' of 3/16" cable and is rated at 6,000 lbs rolling load capacity.
Powered or hand-cranked, it pulls my T onto the trailer without much strain.
Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem on Monday, October 08, 2007 - 02:13 pm:

Mike,

Electric windlass = electric winch.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth Harbuck - Shreveport, LA on Monday, October 08, 2007 - 03:29 pm:

Just don't tell Bubba down here in the deep south that you like that Warn windlass on the front of his Z71 pick-um-up or his fo-wheela.

Bob must be big into boating. :-)

Let's see Bob, is it the port or starboard side that you hop into that speedster of yours?

Seth


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Robb on Monday, October 08, 2007 - 06:00 pm:

Seth,
Ahoy!
I'm a little dinghy. Of course, it's a winch - it even calls it that in the catalog!
I board the Speedster on the port side, forward of the thwart.
(with the brakes it has, I should carry an anchor aboard!)
Capt. Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les Schubert on Monday, October 08, 2007 - 08:03 pm:

One comment, and it should be obvious, try to find a level place to do your loading and unloading. Loading down hill is OK, loading up hill just makes the job a lot tougher and more dangerous if you stall out and the car suddenly wants to start backing up. Unloading down hill makes the job more dangerous especially if you have Rocky Mountain brakes that don't work well in reverse.
Sure, sometimes you can't find a level spot, so then unload up hill and load down hill.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bryan Grube on Monday, October 08, 2007 - 08:22 pm:

My dad and I share an enclosed beavertail trailer with a fold down ramp. He stands inside and makes sure I am straight, then I drive the car in like we do with the triumph TR3 and model a roadster that we have. The only difference witht the T is that the winshield has to be folded down! I almost forgot one time and came to my senses when I was on the ramp!!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Thomas on Monday, October 08, 2007 - 08:26 pm:

Besides the winch/windlass, extra battery, drip pans, painted interior, are there any other goodies you folks have found?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Monday, October 08, 2007 - 08:30 pm:

This may sound crazy until you do the geometry but be very careful not to rip the top on your T when it catchs on the door overhead when you load or unload on an uphill or downhill slope. I have a 1912 Delivery Car that is 84" tall at the peak and it just barely will go into my 82" door opening when the trailer is sitting on level ground. The inside clearance of my trailer is 90" or more so no problem there but getting through the door is tricky and I always make sure I am on level ground since obviously the top of the T will hit the top of the doorway if the ramp door is level with the trailer floor. I made a scale drawing of the profile and used my CAD system to make sure the T would "stoop" its head enough to get into the door when coming up the door as a ramp. You CAN actually fit a T taller than your trailer door into your trailer if the peak of the T roof is near the middle of the car. As you go up the ramp the front wheels are IN the trailer while the back wheels are on the ramp and the center of the car is lower and closer to the bottom of the doorway by several inches. Tight fit but very doable on level ground.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Robb on Monday, October 08, 2007 - 11:59 pm:

Well Mike,
One last thing: If you want to look REAL COOL, put a pair of Model T rear fenders on you Model T trailer! I'm in the process of doing that (without welding or cutting the fenders, so that they will still be usable for a car sometime later) and it's really going to be a good looking and unique trailer.
And Seth; wouldn't you know: it's a modified BOAT trailer!
Have fun,
Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Nelson Jones on Tuesday, October 09, 2007 - 10:28 am:

Bryan. Your dad is a brave man Nelson


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Cascisa in Poulsbo, WA on Wednesday, October 10, 2007 - 11:30 pm:

Bob Robb,

Of course you know you are required to post pictures of your fender installation.

Be_Zero_Be


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Robb on Wednesday, October 10, 2007 - 11:54 pm:

Bob in Poulsbo,
As soon as I'm able to shove that critter out of the garage, I'll shoot it.
Not enough room to get back far enough to take a picture with it in the shop.
Next week OK?
Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick - (2) '26's - Bartow, FL on Thursday, October 11, 2007 - 07:33 am:

Bob. Let's be correct here. "Real cool" was not a term used back in the twenties. If you want to be accurate, use "Bee's Knees" or Cat's Meow" or "Cat's Pajamas". All mean something very desirable, such as "She's the bee's knees or She's the cat's meow or, Wow! Those fender's on Bob's trailer are the cat's meow!!! LOL! Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Robb on Thursday, October 11, 2007 - 11:01 am:

How's this:
"Wow! Those fenders on Bob's trailer are whiz-bang!"
Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick - (2) '26's - Bartow, FL on Thursday, October 11, 2007 - 12:50 pm:

LOL! You've got the idea, Bob. Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Robb on Friday, October 12, 2007 - 11:30 pm:

Bob in Poulsbo,
Here's a photo of the Model T fender on my Model T trailer (modified from a boat trailer, hence the rust and Buddy Bearings).
Bob
T trailer - T fender


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Robb on Friday, October 12, 2007 - 11:33 pm:

I think I have a problem sending photos - in order to keep it under 100MB, I have to make it soooo small!
any suggestions?
Thanx,
Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Frank Harris on Saturday, October 13, 2007 - 12:50 am:

Run the picture through photoshop. trim it down to 60K so it will send. The picture below is 43K. 60M is a huge file 300 times bigger than mine. How are you processing 60m down to a postage stamp ?

trim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Robb on Saturday, October 13, 2007 - 06:26 am:

Frank,
In Photoshop, I had the resolution at 200. I've changed that to 80, and will try again.
Thanx,
Bob
T fender on T trailer


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Robb on Saturday, October 13, 2007 - 06:33 am:

And again:T fender on T trailerT fender on T trailer


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