Rear wheel removal

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2005: Rear wheel removal
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jeff Brown on Monday, November 19, 2007 - 11:57 am:

I have just about got my 26 TT chassis stripped down. Managed to get the engine out in the weekend on my own and without any hoist, and on to a support frame on wheels, and lived to tell the tale! But have struck a problem in trying to get the rear wheels off. I cannot get the axle nuts off as the axle just turns with the nut, even though the wheel is not turning. This seems pretty weird as I though there should be a key between the axle and the wheel hub to prevent this and enable the rear wheels to drive. If I turn the wheel, it does turn the axle but I think it is only by friction. I tried stopping the driveshaft from turning but can still turn both axles. With both wheels like this, doesn't it mean that the wheels would not turn under power? I am feeling my way here as a newbie but any help would be appreciated.

Jeff


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kenny Edmondson on Monday, November 19, 2007 - 12:27 pm:

Jeff, Sounds like your missing both keys. Try this, Put a wrench on the nuts of both axle's and then try to back off the nut on one end. This may take 2 people or a long wrench to accomplish, but one of the nuts should come loose. After you get the one wheel loose and off then put a key in that axle and wheel, reinstall it then go to the other wheel and loosen that nut. The other option is a 1/2" drive Air impact wrench. If you have the air wrench it will probably loosen both nuts without doing any of the above steps.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Sebastien Landry on Monday, November 19, 2007 - 12:30 pm:

Had the same problem on mine. I used the impact, and both nuts came right off.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jeff Brown on Monday, November 19, 2007 - 12:37 pm:

Kenny, Thanks for the tip but didn't work - both axles just turn independantly with a wrench on each. I do not have a compressor yet so cannot use an impact wrench - on the wish list!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Thomas J. Miller on Monday, November 19, 2007 - 12:44 pm:

If the axle keys are out, the your differential is the culprit. Put a socket on the end of a long breaker bar on one axle nut to resist the torque from the other axle. Put the car in gear (ignition off) otherwise the driveshaft will turn. With everything locked, the axle nuts will have to come off.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Weir on Monday, November 19, 2007 - 01:28 pm:

Sorry, he says the engine is out. Get it to a tire shop or have a tire shop send their service truck to your place.

Sincerely

Jim Weir


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kenny Edmondson on Monday, November 19, 2007 - 02:02 pm:

Missed the part about the engine being out. Put a 3rd wrench on the u-joint.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James J Sims on Monday, November 19, 2007 - 02:25 pm:

Here is a poor man's impact wrench. If you have a strong boxed end wrench, put it on the nut then strike the other end of the wrench with a heavy hammer. have the tire or wheel on the floor with weight on it. Protect yourself because the wrench could fly off and hit you where you don't wish to be hit.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Thomas J. Miller on Monday, November 19, 2007 - 02:42 pm:

I missed the missing engine too. Sorry about that


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jeff Brown on Monday, November 19, 2007 - 03:05 pm:

Success!! With a wrench on both sides and one on the drive shaft I got the first one off so am now in business. Why would anyone put the rear wheels on without keys?? I think my truck has had a short but hard life. There was only one bolt holding on the front cross member to the right hand side channel. The rest was a mixture of broken bolts, broken rivets and missing bolts!

Thanks for all your help!

Jeff


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Warren Mortensen on Monday, November 19, 2007 - 03:14 pm:

Not uncommon for the keys to be removed since if the rear wheels are broken loose from the axle shaft (and sometimes greased in this area) the vehicle can be dragged around the shop, the yard, onto a trailer, off a trailer, etc. This is especially useful if the engine or transmission is stuck or the diffy has an issue.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Jeandrevin on Monday, November 19, 2007 - 03:30 pm:

Jeff,
Although in your case it caused you a lot of problems, I know a guy that recomends not putting keys in your rear wheels while you are building a car. He says he doesn't so he can push the car around in his shop without fighting the gears. It is much easier to move around that way. He just puts the axel bolts on finger tight though.

Tim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jeff Brown on Monday, November 19, 2007 - 04:13 pm:

Tim and Warren, thanks-that's good thinking. I'll leave them out when I put the wheels back on until I am ready to fire her up.

Jeff


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Warren Mortensen on Monday, November 19, 2007 - 05:38 pm:

Make sure you put a cotter pin through the axle nut when doing the above. The wheel can walk the nut off when rolling the car/truck without the keys and it's no fun picking up the rear end and sliding the wheel back on.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kenny Edmondson on Monday, November 19, 2007 - 07:12 pm:

Jeff, How did the tapered area of the axle and hub look after you got it off?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jeff Brown on Monday, November 19, 2007 - 07:42 pm:

Kenny, it actually looked amazingly good and the keyway doesn't seem to have any damage or wear. My next battle is with the pin that fixes the universl to the driveshaft. Doesn't seem to want to budge. It looks like a parallel pin and not a taper pin? Are there any tricks to getting these out?

Jeff


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kenny Edmondson on Monday, November 19, 2007 - 08:50 pm:

Not really. Just a good punch and a swift accurate blow from a ball peen hammer. The first one I removed was surprisingly easy. It is a straight pin about a 1/4" dia. If the pin won't move turn the drive shaft 180 deg. and try it again.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Weir on Monday, November 19, 2007 - 11:59 pm:

Add "large" to the Ball Peen Hammer

Sincerely

Jim Weir


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