What is the smallest hydraulic shop press that can be used to work on the Model T just for occassional use? In other words what was the maximum tonnage anyone has used on their Model T rebuild and what bushing/part did they use it on?...Thanks...Michael

I use a older 12 ton unit that was sold new at Northern about 20 years ago.It helped me remove the gears from axles and such.I pressed in the bushings for the transmission gears with it as well.But I beleive I coulda carefully fited them in a 6 inch vise with some wood cushion and pressed them in that way.I also used it to press in the spindal bushings,spring perch bushings and etc.

I used to use it for alot of other stuff in my lawnmower repair side work but I seldom do anything in that line now but for myself.

It all depends on your space but I would opt for the widest 1 you can fit in the alloted space.If I were to buy 1 today,I would buy a 20 or 30 ton unit.Bigger,wider and so forth.
Sorry this is the best photo I have of it.
Be mindfull of the Harbor frieght stuff and such.I found this out the hard way.I have 1 of the 1000 pound pickup cranes on my 66 Ford truck.I have used it for all kinds of work and loved it till the jack failed.I took it to be overhauled and the guy told me he would do the best he could but the chinese hydrolic jacks just werent meant to be over hauled.Sure enough it didnt last 2 months and I have to add fluid each time I want to use it.Most all the presses you buy will have a china jack.So bear this in mind.If you can find a mechanic shop wanting to sell a used older unit,you may be better off paying more for a industrial second hand unit than a new cheapy.
But the jacks are cheap to replace if need be in presses like this 1 I have.

I use a 20 ton unit. Axle gears can sometimes be difficult even with it.

Michael,

By far the hardest job you'll ever encounter on a Model T in my experience is pressing the axle housings off of the tubes. The only reason you ever really need to do this is to salvage a Ruckstell that's been shortened or for some other uncommon reason, like trying to salvage an early housing because of a bad backing plate. In my experience, the Ford housings take approximately 45 tons of force with heat from an acetylene rosebud tip (punching out the rivets first, of course). They usually let go with a pretty substantial bang. The Ruckstell housings press off and on with considerably less force. I wouldn't buy a press just to do this job, though - find someone else who's got one big enough for it. I'd go with one with a 30 ton capacity, or 20 if the price is right.

I have a 25 ton Dake hydraulic press with a 3 ton Dake arbor press mounted on the side. The arbor press is used for most jobs which gives a good feel for the amount of pressure being exerted on little work over using one big hydraulic press to do all your pressing jobs. However, when it comes to pressing gears off shafts, spring perches out of axles and the like a 20-25 ton press is needed. Bob

The only time I have ever removed an axle gear, it took 28 tons to move it. I don't think they were supposed to be quite that tight originally. As with the clutch drum, if excessive force is needed, it's usually due to a burr being raised during the installation.

I don't know if they make one this wide, but a hydraulic press that is 24" wide would do everything that a Model T would need.

A 24" width between the upright's would allow you to put a wheel in it for changing spoke's.

Anyone ever seen one this wide?

Steve

I bought a 20 ton press at Harbor Freight recently. It has a 22 1/2" width between the uprights. I've been using it to re-spoke 21" T wheels & it works just fine with about 1" to spare.

I've never measured it but I believe my shop press is about 30" between uprights. I'm curious now so I'll measure it tomorrow. My 12-ton has been able to do everything I've asked it to do including forming metal parts. But...It's a "true" 12-ton.

If you have trouble getting an axle gear off, heat the axle until the gear just starts to smoke. Let them cool then press the gear off. Don't let the axle get red hot though.

I use a 20 ton but I changed the bottle jack in it to an air operated one and boy does that save time and arm pumping. I also added a pressure gauge and THAT is something I cannot do without. When pushing gentle things it makes for a totally repeatable "push" and when straightening things it allows me to add small amounts of greater pressure when something seems NOT to move. I STRONGLY suggest you have a press with a gauge on it or do what I did and ADD one to your bottle jack press. I don't think a large press is really much help when it comes to wheel assembly since the press actually gets in the way when you try to get all the spokes setup in a teepee shape. I built a separate cheap screw press for that and it holds the wheel hub in mid air to make wheel spoke installation a breeze. Even a fat lady sitting on it can push the spokes into the steel felloe AFTER you get all the spokes and hub ready and have some tension on it. That is the hard part and the hydraulic press is NOT the tool to do that all with IMHO. You mileage may vary.

I was at a Homier Tool sale saterday,they carry a 30 ton press I think it is,fairly reasonable.
I am on the emailing list and if a sale comes within my area I get a email about a week before.I dont buy alot from them but I did get a 1/4 electric die grinder for 19 bucks and it came with a free jigsaw.I know it wont compare to my craftsman professional but the bushing is getting worn on it and it wobbles some.And to i want to be able to have 2 setup with different bits for jobs.The salesman told me the tools have a year warrenty also.