I am a newbie with Model T’s. My son and I are working on a 1924-27 that my Dad had before he pasted away a couple of years ago. I worked some of the time. We are going through everything and my first roadblock is the carb.

Can anyone send me directions for rebuilding the Holley NH Carb and where to get replacement parts?

Much obliged.

Al -- Go to the MTFCA home page and click on "parts suppliers". Any of the full-line vendors listed will have what you need. (I like Snyder's and Lang's best.)

Al, This club site sells some great booklets on Model T repair plus the parts vendors sell some reprints of really useful books from the era. Below are pictured the books I have used the most over the years....Michael Pawelek

Along with what Michael has posted, the carb book is decent but it has some limitations and mis-information. The instruction to soak the seat and spray nozzle in WD40 is a practical joke I think as you can soak it for 10 years and come no closer to removing a stuck one than the day it started soaking. Use heat, turn that area of the carb red and when it cools they can usually be turned out with your fingers. Brass has a higher expansion and shrink rate than iron and when those items cool they pull themselves away from the wall and are loose.

One other overlooked item on an NH is often the passages need cleaned out. To do this there are three brass plugs that have to be drilled out. Once out, run a piece of coat hanger through them to ensure they are clear. Then, using 1/8 inch brass rod hammer a piece back in to plug the hole and sand flush.

The NH throttle shaft is often wore plumb out. Since the carb is iron the installation of a new shaft from one of the vendors will have it like new. Lastly, depending one where you live, join a T club chapter. There is very likely someone near you that can assist with your carb and other projects. Good luck with your T.

Don't throw the original needle and seat away either. No one makes a good reproduction, and I sure wish they did.

Here is a little trick on cleaning passages. I make up sets of carb passage cleaning rods in six different sizes ranging from .011 to .056 a couple times a year. Usually by the time I need them I've lost the last set. I also give them away to my non-musical friends. They are free, easy to use and since they are wound bronze except for the two smallest sizes they do not distort the holes in the jets. You can make them too. They are called used acoustic Guitar strings. I use Dean Markley Blue Steel Medium Light gauge on my acoustic Martin guitars (.011-.054) and slightly lighter ones on the vintage guitars. (.010-.052) I use a variety of flat wounds on the electrics but they don't work as well for jet cleaners. I did, however, keep a set or two of the round wound strings that came on the jazz guitars, they are monel metal, which is harder than bronze and clean better. I just cut them in lengths of about 6 inches and throw them in the carb bench tool drawer. If you need to thread a leader through the jet you can just unwind part of the bronze winding and there is a steel core of smaller diameter. If I do say so myself, this is a hell of an idea and I'm amazed I never thought of it years ago. I used to use tip cleaners for acetylene but they are too coarse and resize the jets. If you ain't a picker, you can ask any guitar player for a set of used strings or pick up the cheapest set they make at the music store for about five bucks and make up a dozen sets for your friends. Free advice and helpful tips from Uncle Stan, just go ahead and use 'em and claim 'em for you own. =) I might even send you a free set if you ask nice. Wonder if I could sell em on ebay? HHHHHmmmmmmmmm. Another desperate attempt to survive. HHHHHHHHHHHHmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

Just as an aside to all this, IMHO WD-40 is a joke. I've never found much of anything it would do, let alone loosen a jet in an NH. Get some Kroil and get something done. You need one of Uncle Jack Daron's jet removal tools, a little hot wrench and in ten minutes or less it is out and on the bench.

Some information that is conspicuously absent from the carburetor booklet that was put out by the MTFCA, the sizes of taps that are needed for the NH:

Float needle- 1/4-32
Adjusting needle- 1/4-32
Adjusting needle seat- 3/8-24
Bowl nut- 9/16-24
Adjusting needle lock nut- 1/8 NPT
Fuel line fitting- 1/8 NPT

On the lower part of the body (insdie the bowl) and the bore of the carburetor, I use gun bluing to help keep them rust free. And on my straight-through NH, I have six brass plugs. Three more makes it better, right?

Wish I had seen Kroil mentioned as many times as WD40 on this forum. A lot of people could be saved a bunch of trouble.

stan, a good use for wd 40,is for surf fishing, spray some on the lures.works wonders

What is surf fishing? We only have blue ribbon trout streams and lake fishing here. =)

Stan it is like casting upstream ,only different.(G)

Where can you purchase Kroil?

Thanks
Kirk Peterson
Santa Fe, NM

Kroil can be found at auto parts stores.

Be_Zero_Be

KROIL-KANO Laboratories p.o. box 110098 Nashville Tn 37222-0098, www.kanolabs.com ph 615-833-4102 Its all we use in Fulton Mo.

Not attempting to Hijack the thread, but the MTFCA carb book says that the seat on a Holly G should be redrilled with a #51 drill that is something like .057 but that size does not match up to the drill charts. #51 is something like 0.067. Is this a typo in the book? There is no drill size that is 0.057

It also says to use a 1/8 and 5/32 punch to close up the hole. These fit sort of loosely. Why use the smaller punches?