I got one off, finally!
I ordered a puller from Lang's and received it on Sat. Put it on and tightened the hell out of the center bolt, hammered it a few time's, and then walked away from it. I would hammer it a few time's every time I walked by it, and/or left/returned to the house. I did this from Sat. afternoon to about three hour's ago.
I planned on getting one off tonight, but I did not figure it would be pretty. I got the torches and cut-off tool's out and was all ready to "get ugly" with it when I decided I would beat on it one last time. I hit it twice and it sounded no different than all the other blow's. But the third hit sounded different. It was starting to come off! Those of you who have done this know what sound I heard. I've heard it before so I knew it was loosening. Keeping constant pressure on it for day's along with periodic hammering's loosened it up. Or maybe the sight of the tank's and torch scared the hub a little bit! Lucky for it, it was only minute's away from a firery death.
The axle had two shim's on it and one was crooked. It was partly over the keyway so everything was on there tighter than it should have been. And who know's what the axle nut was torqued to when the wheel was installed last.
One down, one to go. We'll see what happen's with the other side.
Thank's to all that offered their advice on my original posting.
I use the same type puller, (old Ford version). When I acquired it many years ago the center bolt was fairly mashed and the point of contact for the axle shaft was severely abused which showed me that it had stood a good bit of hammering.
I have never gotten a wheel off by just tightening the center bolt.
Now rather than wailing away with a sledge hammer, I bought a hand held air hammer that accepts different styles of bits and one is a standard looking hammer head.
I screw on the puller and tighten up the center bolt and use the air hammer for about one short burst and the wheel is loose instantly.
The other problem with the sledge hammer is the blow is all absorbed by the differential gears and ultimately the famous disintegrating Babbitt thrust washers.
The thing makes a sickening noise when itís struck.
The air hammer hasnít even scratched the paint on the puller after numerous uses.
Air tools are fairly cheap these days compared to old car parts.
Steve, one word of warning about to much hammering on the puller. I had a wheel that was stuck fairly tight, so I pulled the nut all the way off the axle and installed the puller. I tightened up good and tight on the center screw of the puller and hit the end three or four times with a good size hammer. The puller loosened up and to my amazement, the axle had done a three way split on the end. This might have been a reproduction axle???
Now I just loosen the axle nut, put the cotter pin back in thru the nut and axle. Next I install the puller, then I tighten up good and tight on the puller, try a few lighter hits with the hammer and if that does not work, I leave the puller good and tight and drive the vehicle. That has never failed to pull a wheel loose for me yet.
I had good luck by putting the puller on tight and going at it with the hammer a few times but would give the wrench a light tap to tighten it a little more then tap the puller on the bolt end a couple times and then tap the wrench again and so on. I noticed the wrench would move ever so slightly each time and after doing this for a while it would come loose. I even would take the bolt loose and get another bite at it sometimes and that helped too.
Just another idea for you to think about while you wait for it fall off.
The other day I put on the first thread a "solution" to this problem which I later realized couldn't possibly work and was a stupid idea. Sorry for the bad info but a varient on the idea could work if big washers were put behind the spokes with the chain bolted to those and the jack applied as before. As everyone has now solved the problem I won't elaborate. Have a nice weekend. John
Bob McDaniel, I just read the April 08 issue of Vintage truck, p. 80 there is a 1927 INDIANA chassis for sale 150.00, ph 618-558-6918 Ill.
First let me say thanks for the tip. I bet that was the 07 issue you saw!
I will check that number with the one I was given last year of a guy in southern Ill that had a frame for sale for about that same price. I would almost bet it was the same guy and yes it was an Indiana frame but had been cut down like almost every one I have ever found. We made the trip to see this thing because I needed some parts that may have been on it and came home empty but met a real nice guy on the other end and saw a good power show that day with lots of cool old stuff.
Tips like this are what has turned up more parts for me over the years than anything on the old trucks I am working on and after almost 28 years of searching so far, I am happy to say that almost everything has been located but some parts that are not known about may still be needed so any help is more than welcome. I just don't know what might turn up that needs replaced or might be missing that I didn't know about yet.
Bob it says april 08, as I subscribe to it, and just got it Friday
The old farmer method: easiest way to do this, if the car is running: loosen the nut 1/2 to 1 turn, put the cotter in and drive the T it in a tight circle. Jack it up, the wheel should be removeable by hand. This applies to crossed up shims as well. Works every time for me.