Stuck cam shaft - Advice anyone?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2005: Stuck cam shaft - Advice anyone?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Alex Brown on Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 05:11 pm:

I have an earlyish block with a stuck cam shaft. As you can imagine I do not want to risk damaging the block trying to get the cam shaft out.

Anyone here had experience with well stuck camshafts and an easy way to get them out which is risk free?

Any advice would be greatly welcomed thanks!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim ( www.ModelTengine.com ) on Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 05:35 pm:

Soak it in something designed to loosen rusty bolts.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim ( www.ModelTengine.com ) on Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 05:37 pm:

Forgot to add this too, have patients. It took many decades to get it that stuck, so don't expect it too free up instantly.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By jon crane on Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 05:43 pm:

Soak it for several days in KROIL. It will free anything. Buy a gallon and use it liberally over a weeks time. See if you can position the block/bearing area so it sits in the stuff. Guaranteed to free it up. We had stuck pistons, I mean really stuck in an old Mack truck. Piled the kroil in and waited and they came lose with a couple of light taps after a week. jon crane


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Alex Brown on Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 05:55 pm:

I have been soaking it for the previous 12months with no luck, however what is kroil??? I have been using wd40 and other things.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By jon crane on Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 06:00 pm:

Kroil is much better than wd 40. It has a lot more "horsepower". I get the stuff amil order and swear buy it. Try google and you will get the info from down south. It works. jon


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Jeffrey Cole on Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 06:03 pm:

Oh yes,Kroil,the penetrant of choice!
You will need to clean the wd-40 gun cleaner off of it though so the kroil can get in there.
I would also use a brass punch and a light hammer and tap repeatedly on the bearings and on the shaft and spray kroil on it.You aint trying to beat it out,by tapping on it you are setting up a vibration and it opens microscopic crevices that allow penetrant to get in.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Eric Hylen on Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 06:27 pm:

I'm sure the cam is scrap anyway. So, use a die grinder or torch to cut the cam into sections at the end of each bearing shell. Then, simply drive out the remaining pieces with a hammer and punch. The bearing shells should come out pretty easily once the cam pieces are gone. I've done it, it works.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Weir on Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 06:57 pm:

Alex; Be sure the two bolts are removed that hold the center and front bearings in.

Sincerely

Jim Weir


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Houston, Broken Arrow, OK on Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 10:51 pm:

Cremate it! Mid-western Engine Rebuilders bake their engines before rebuilding. They stick them in an oven. 600 degrees for 6 hours. They allow hobbiest place their items in the oven and bake whenever the oven is full. Great for rear axles, engine blocks with valves and pistons rusted in, etc.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Jeffrey Cole on Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 10:58 pm:

What effect would that temp have on the babbits?
Sounds like a good way to free up parts for sure.Even heat all accross the board.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Houston, Broken Arrow, OK on Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 09:37 pm:

Mack, at the end of this procedure, your block and rods will have no babbit.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Frink on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 02:57 am:

Electrolysis works good on freeing up everything without damaging the babbit.
Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Jeffrey Cole on Monday, February 11, 2008 - 10:31 am:

I got thinking and this may sound stupid,but if the lifters are still in it,and there are stuck valves,You may need to wap the lifters with a brass punch and see if it will open up some space to drive out the cam.I fiqured this out by mistake a week ago.I really had a case of DUH UH,and didnt think to take out valves first.the cam lobes will hit a lifter on the way out.


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