Hello everyone, can someone tell me how to test generator cut-out either on or off the car.
thanks in advance for info
Alot of folkes will tell you to chunk it in the clay and get a new 1 without testing.Thier advice is well founded and not off base at all.
But I like to "test" things and learn and mess sometimes,so I took the cover off 1.There is a coil in there,and a set of points.It is basicly a solinoid.With the cover off you can see each end of the coil and hook 6 volts to it and see if it closes the points.You can also determine where to hook a test light or meter to the points to see if they make contact when the coil is activated.I did this to 1 and found it to be functional at that capacity.The generator I attached it though,well,lets say i have some more work to do.
The points can stick in them allowing it to kill the battery and damage the generator.Which aint cheap to fix if it is toasted well done.
Original mechanical cutouts are prone to troubles. They do double damage in that FIRST the points start sticking CLOSED which results in a dead battery when you shut the engine off and the battery then discharges through the generator. This action will not hurt the generator but any lead acid battery that is taken to ZERO charge (like totally dead) is NEVER the same again so one episode is all it takes for that to do in your battery. Not done yet - the next event that happens is that the cutout starts to stick OPEN when it is supposed to close. What happens is that the generator then has no load on it and it is a peculiar design flaw in the adjustable 3rd brush type generators that then cause the generator to burn itself up when spinning with no load on it. The solid state type cutouts (diode instead of points) will at least stop ONE of these 2 events - namely it will NOT stick open - EVER. Thus at least your generator is safe.