I am finally getting around to replacing my exhaust on my 26 Touring. When I purchase the T, it had a custom made pipe with a glass pack and mickey mouse hanger on it.
I bought a repop exhaust system from one of the vendors and I find that the exhaust pipe is about two inches too long.
I guess the remedy would be to cut the pipe shorter, however I am wondering if this is typical of the systems not fitting correctly?
If I cut it to fit, can this be simply handled with a hack saw? Am I missing something here like a fault in the muffler not allowing the exhaust pipe to go in far enough?
Thanks for any and all suggestions.
I have replaced my exhaust system twice, and yes I had to cut off some of the exhaust pipe.
Tom, on the last several New Exhaust pipes I have Bought and used, I had to cut about 2 in. off of the end of the pipe to get everything to line up. Normally I cut it with a large Pipe Cutter but a Hack Saw would work as well.
Just bought one and installed it 2 weeks ago and had to cut off about 2".
I had welded up my muffler mounting hole by mistake,so I drilled 1 to fit with the longer pipe.
BUT I bought a muffler new from Snyders for both my Ts.The 1 on my TT has fell apart and I have put it back together before.I thought is was a fluke and bought a second 1 for the roadster pickup project.that dang thing rattles and smoke somes out of both ends around the seem.I used to wonder why people put the "mickey mouse" hotrod muffler and stuff on them.Now I understand .The reproduction muffler is actually the "mickey mouse" quality part.
The speedster is going to have a old school muffler.A piece of 6 inch well caseing with ends welded on it and it will "LOOK" like a muffler.Aint spending no more of my money on those cheap viena sausage cans.
Guy's, Thank You, I thought it was just me, after the 2nd one I got a pipe cutter, one minute & your done. Also used it to install a water heater so it paid for itself.
Better too long than too short.
I bought the stainless steel one from Lang's. Fit perfect.
I think it is longer for the early cars that were not clamped tight in the front,the pipe just slides in.
The stainless steel exhaust pipe has an extra slight bend bend (above the big bend) that is just enough to allow that pipe to clear the transmission cover and make a perfect fit to the manifold.
...which is a key bend missing from many of the repro exhaust pipes being used. Ever see an aluminum hogshead with a groove worn in it on the right rear corner of the flywheel housing? That's what happens with many of the repop exhaust pipes that have been available over the years. Ford put a little extra bend in the pipe; sort of a hump to clear the hogshead. Whoever makes the stainless steel exhaust pipe knows what they are doing.
Well, after much cussing, cutting, bending and even hammering, I got the blasted exhaust system on.
I had to cut 1 1/4 inch off the end of the pipe with a hacksaw. I needed to bend the dang thing several times to get the flange to seat up to the manifold properly. And just to make things fun, after doing all the bending, I needed to hammer some dents into the pipe bends so I could get the pack nut to slide back on over the new bends. This no doubt caused by me not using a proper tube bender. My tube bender was an implement from my Ford 9N tractor.
If someone else is about to do this same job, make sure you clean up your manifold threads real good and run the pack nut down to bottom a couple of times before installing the pipe. I also used a little Permatex anti-seize on the treads. One other item that will need some help is where the exhaust pipe fits into the muffler and is "U" clamped. It will probably need to be wrapped to keep exhaust or noise from comming out of the seam. And make sure you use a proper tube bender.
Thanks to everyone for your suggestions and help.
Tom and others -- To avoid all that cussing, cutting, bending and hammering, just contact Vern Campbell to buy one of his stainless steel exhaust pipes. They fit correctly every time.
19005 Cone Road
Milan, MI 48160