. . .and didn't have to bother ya'll with a dumb question. Let me share what I learned: I previously wanted to confirm a suspicion that the steel thrust washer(s) might've slipped off their pins because my '27 coupe was extremely difficult to push across a level concrete floor in neutral. Our friend R.V. Anderson answered and suggested a rearend/driveshaft pull might be in order. Am I glad I hoisted the frame and body and did just that! Although the problem was found to be an excessively worn LR hub and/or axle taper, the emergency brake cam shaft bushings were way too far gone. I can't imagine replacing these on a '27 coupe from underneath the car! So, back to the hub/axle wear: I looked up the keywords 'hub shims' and learned the repop shims are too thin (.003) to do any good and shouldn't be used in pairs on one side but can be used as a template to make more substantial shims. I selected an empty can of aerosol electrical parts cleaner and cut the top and bottom off and proceeded to cut out two real nice .008 shims for either hub. I also learned that the emergency brake drum shouldn't protrude beyond the brake backing plate and this is the way you know when you need shims. And that the shims should be inserted into the hub for installation and not over the taper. Finally I learned that a good rear axle nut torque would be around 100 lbs. as the castellated nut approaches a cotter key hole. I know. . . I know . . . this cobbling with shims is no account and, in a perfect world, a new axle and hub should be in order. But we drive the best we can afford. Thanks to all who participate on this Forum and the Keyword Search option available.