John Danuser and I discussed a TT closed-cab part that I need. It is not presently reproduced and I thought if I can get enough information I will try to do some. This is the steel piece that attaches to the bottom of the door glass and has the attachment point for the lift strap. John sent me a photocopy of a sketch, and although it is very helpful I can't make out some of the details. I was wondering if any of you fellas with TT cabs or parts might have a spare one of these laying around that I could borrow for a few days? I'll pay the shipping both ways and also send you a pair of new ones for your trouble when I return the borrowed one, if it is something that is going to be possible to reproduce cost-effectively.
I know I can't be the only one that needs these parts, and from what I can tell from the drawing it would be an easy project.
Thanks in advance!
Ray,,,,Show me what it looks like....The drawing,,,I may have that part...I have a box of extra parts for the closed cab....I don't even have windows in my truck because I'm missing the retaining strips on one door...I tried to post a photo of my truck ,,,but it said it was too big of a file (?)I'm on Vintage Ford cover 1986....A little thinner and younger Oh-well Carl aka Spanky
All you need is a U-channel and a way to attach the strap. Since this part isn't likely to be seen by "judges", I think most folks improvise. The TT-CC I'm working on came supplied with Model A rails and I've made many a rail out of square tubing. I'll probably make the rails for this one because the repops are so flimsy and have to be modified anyway.
Here's an easy way to make them.
Hey, this topic is a good one, because we will be needing to fix our doors and windows sometime in the near future. Thanks for bringing this one up.
Yeah, Ken, I was going to just make a channel like we discussed doing in a thread recently (http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/42890.html?1202493051 ), but I thought if I could get a correct one it would be fun to reproduce some "correct" ones. You know I ain't ever gonna have no club judge looking over my ol' TT I'd be the first ever with a deficit in points!
Carl, send me the pics you wanna post and I'll be glad to do it. I tried to scan the drawing John sent me but it is too faint from photocopying that it can't be made out in a scan. It is 24" long and 1" tall, channel for glass is 3/16" wide. both sides of the channel have a lip folded outward and appears that one side folds down again with a 1/8" gap. Are you needing these pieces? I can make you some if thats all you need.
Ray I have 1 window pc left, I think I'll send it to you Monday firstname.lastname@example.org, my truck was restored in 1975-6, and still has no windows in doors!
Ok John, I didn't realize you had one or I would have just given you a call. I can pretty much make out the drawing for the channel, but I can't figure out the correct piece for attaching the pull strap. Let me know the cost to ship it so I can send that back with your new pieces!
As a side note, I got the final template finished this morning for the TT rear window garnish molding. This cold weather had really prolonged that project for entirely too long. If any way possible, I'll send that stuff back with the door glass parts.
Not to take this off course but it is a TT-CC "window" question(s)--
1. What was the width of the window strap?
2. Is anyone reproducing the strap pin that holds the strap to the inside of the door?
3. I think the original strap was punched for three window locations--Up, Down and halfway. Is this correct?
4. Were the holes in the strap "key slot" holes?
Here is a response I posted on the Ton Truck Club Forum almost a year ago. Hopefully this will help anyone with the straps. The holes are grommets that push on.
Ken, Andy answered part of your question, and I'll answer the strap pin question; You want those in brass, stainless, or mild steel...Brad on or threaded for a machine screw, and how many?
Never saw a vendor with them, but be simple to make on the lathe
This is a great topic. Keep us posted on when such "parts" might be available.
John, if you need some of the strap pins, I'm serious about making them. Easy to whip out some of those like I said. I guess I should make a pair and post pictures to assure you guys I ain't just talkin.
As far as the channel goes, as soon as I get that one from John we'll git'r done, and I'll make sure everybody knows
I used some fordor sedan sashes for mine, and just riveted the strap on the regulator track. They work fine.
Page A-81 in Snyder's lists several of these. The cheaper ones are less than $10 and can be cut to suit.
Thanks for the offer Ray but it sounds like you have your hands full at the moment. I'll just whip out a couple here. I'll need them Monday or Tuesday so no order from anybody will get here in time.
That Bravenet link doesn't work for me so anybody else care to answer the rest of the questions? And what kind of "grommet"? I can't imagine Ford used a grommet over a painted steel pin. What's the story there?
I don't mean to steal your thread, but hey.....paybacks! lol
This is sorta related and I thought I would share. I am doing the windows in my '25 Tudor soon. While rounding up window parts, I found the cost of the side window "felt tracks" a huge expense. As I have stated before, I am a real cheap skate, and save a buck where I can if it won't be noticed or not work properly.
The vendors are selling the side felt tracks for about $11 bucks plus shipping. That doesn't sound bad....until you get your order together. Let's see....
4 top rubbers, $2.25 each = $9.00
8 bottom bumpers $.75 each = $6.00
10' "cat whisker rubber" = $9.00
8 Felt channels @ $11.00 each = $88.00
Total 4 side windows = $112.00
Ok...this worked great:
Lowes. 1/2"X1/2"X4' aluminum channel
= $5.60 each X 8 Total $44.80
1 Yard of black felt from joanne fabrics = $4.20
1 tube of "great stuff" from lowe's $4.39
Total for all 8 felt tracks? $53.39 and no shipping
4 top rubbers, $2.25 each = $9.00
8 bottom bumpers $.75 each = $6.00
10' "cat whisker rubber" = $9.00
8 side felt tracks = $53.39
Total all 8 windows = $77.00
Savings = $35.00 That is one free quarter window!
Here is what I wrote on the TT forum.
I found our TT window sash today and attached was a window strap. It made out of what looks like seat upholstery material. I imagine Henry just used the scrap that was left behind. It is 22" long and 2.5" wide. It is stitched all the way around. It is square on all ends. The one end is rolled and then copper riveted to form a loop for the pin that holds it to the sash. The first grommet is an 1.5" from the hand end. The next two are 9" on center. This is an original truck bought from the grandson of the original owner. I feel it is the real deal. I don't know how to post photos here, so email me and I'll send you a them.
Ours was made with grommets and I have seen many others done this way.
Well, I got the window part from John, and all I can say is "this is gonna be easy!
Thanks John! I'll put the speedster body on hold for a bit and get some CAD drawings made of this sash(?), get you a pair of these made like I promised, and send this stuff back to you. Also, the TT driveshaft bushing should be simple too. I've got some stuff ordered for the steering gear case covers I have here to do and I need to see if that is in, and I'll see what the brass is going to cost to make the bushings. That will be the only real factor in reproducing that part.
Thanks again John!
Do you need an original window strap also for your patterns, the 3 loop holes are nothing more than TARP holes, I had to send another fellow that front bushing drawing as he needed one now for his restoration, I;d like a few to take to Chickasha, if you have time. Window channels too or at least a pattern to show that they will be available.
John, A good description and dimensions of the strap and the material should suffice, and I'll see if I can find someone to stich them. My aunt does upholstery and can stitch the heavier material, but I have no idea what material to use and where to get it. Other than that, the weather is supposed to give us a break and be warm this weekend, so I'll get on the bushings and channels Friday. Unless something bad happens, you'll have something to take to Chickasha.
Is brass ok for the bushing? If it was originally babbit, I assume it had a good supply of oil. I can order bronze if necessary, but it appears to me that a lot of the oil-bathed bushings in the T are brass.
Thanks again so much!
Thanks Andy. Would you happen to have the dimensions for the door stop straps?
PS. San Antonio Spurs: 97, Dallas Mavericks: 94 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yeeeehaw. Man, what a nail-biter.
No Ken, I don't, but could sure use them.
Ken & Andy, John has a strap that I'm sure he would measure for you.
Well, here is the elusive TT part that John sent me. It's gonna be warm this weekend and I won't have to burn up a bunch of $3 a gallon fuel, so hopefully I can get some made up.
Ken & Andy, sorry about that. I just realized you aren't talking about the window straps! I need the check straps too!
Fellows send me your u.s. postal address, and I'll send you a copy of the window strap, all it is a pc of upholstery material overlapped and stitched, I have it photo copied w/measurements
email@example.com, fingers work too fast I guess
Hey Ray, is the pin assembly on the bottom off-set to the inside or directly under the rail? How about an end shot?
I'm making the door check straps out of leather. I want to be sure the doors don't end up against a nice shiny new fender. I don't trust "upholstery material" if someone looses a grip on the door.
I had leather for the window lifts too but I'm thinking it may be too thick/stiff. I guess I'll have to search my stash for some seat scraps and break-out the old Singer.
Ken dealers sell door check straps, I carry two types in my stash on the parts trailer, what Ray and several others are talking about is the window lift for TT's
Ken, the pin is offset, and I assume it is to the inside. There is a lip on one side, and I think that goes toward the outside of the door. THe pin is offset opposite that lip. Sorry picture, I know, but I got one shot before the camera batteries gave out. If this isn't good enough, I'll take somme better when I get some batteries tomorrow.
CR Laurance carries a universal bottom chanenel, I don't know if that would work, but it measures
3/8" inside 9/16" outside, and 5/8" high. the 48" piece is part # cp651139 it is zinc plated steel.