Fuel shut off

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2005: Fuel shut off
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Matthew Pizzi on Saturday, March 01, 2008 - 06:41 pm:

Someone rotated my fuel shutoff around several times. I can set to where I hear fuel poor into the carb, but I still can't tell if it's wide open. Can you flip the lever around several times and just continue to open and close it ... or would this mess it up?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim ( www.ModelTengine.com ) on Saturday, March 01, 2008 - 07:27 pm:

Matt, the fuel shutoff is basically a solid rod with a hole through it. Line up the hole in the rod with the holes in the body, and fuel flows. If the holes aren't lined up, the fuel can't flow through.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim ( www.ModelTengine.com ) on Saturday, March 01, 2008 - 07:45 pm:

Hopefully these photos will come through for you. Note that the "open" position is not at 90 or 180 like you'd expect.





Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kenneth H. Todd on Saturday, March 01, 2008 - 08:56 pm:

It's called a plug valve.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A. Golden on Saturday, March 01, 2008 - 09:56 pm:

That valve only has one ON position. After you find that position, you have to note the handle angle and remember that angle, if the valve gets turned. Some people file a slight groove in the bolt end (usually verticle) as a pointer for the ON position.

With no mark, you can leave the key in the ignition, turn the valve and no one will steal and drive away your T. They will steal the key though.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky on Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 12:13 am:

Speaking of valves; Who was it a while back that was making replacement valves? My poor memory can't recall the name but I remember he stopped because of the variations in the bore.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth Harbuck on Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 06:45 am:

Wasn't it Bob Scherzer (sp?)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A. Golden on Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 09:40 am:

Bob may not make that 1926-1927 style valve. He did (and may still) make an early style shut-off valve. Then he makes many items for other companies and may make this one.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave_Sosnoski on Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 12:57 pm:

I'm the one that makes the valves for the 26-27 shutoff. Lang's sells the complete kit including the valve, pack nut, packing, handle, nut and lock washer.

www.t-parts.com

Bob Sherzer I believe at one time was making the earlier ones but stopped because there were so many variations in the bore. I'm not sure if this was due to wear or if Ford changed the design over the life of the part. I have not had any complaints about the 26-27 ones not working. I do recommend that they be lapped in using the Timesaver Yellow lapping compound to fit the valve to the bore. A little fuel valve lubricant or even soap makes them turn easy and provides a better seal.

You can turn the valve around as many times as you want. There is nothing to stop it from rotating all the way around and it won't hurt anything. The ON position is with the handle pointing straight down. Any other position is OFF.

Dave S.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth Harbuck on Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 01:07 pm:

Sorry about that Dave. I guess that "old timers" is creeping into my brain a little sooner than I had hoped.:-)

Seth


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Scherzer on Sunday, March 02, 2008 - 02:18 pm:

Yes, I attempted to cast and machine the early shut offs for the cast iron sediment bulbs. The problem with trying to market them was too many bulbs had problems besides a broken arm. In many cases the arms had been removed and rusted or the bores were galled. The end result was they would drip after being installed. My fault! If I could have supplied cast arms to a rebuilder so a given sediment bulb's bore would have been reamed and lapped to match the handle it might have been a different story. GWTW Bob

shut off


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