Steering Shaft Technical Question

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2005: Steering Shaft Technical Question
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jeff Humble on Monday, March 03, 2008 - 11:22 am:

I have a technical question regarding the steering shaft for my 1926. One of the three pins for the planetary gears is loose and wobbles in the spider. It is the longer one that keeps the steering from being over rotated. Can I braze the pin to the spider or will it ruin the heat teatment(if any)? Took the shaft to a machine shop years ago and they recommended driling and tapping for a set screw in the spider to keep side pressure on the pin, but I am afraid the screw could work loose and lock-up the steering.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By R.V. Anderson on Monday, March 03, 2008 - 11:59 am:

If it was my car, and the shaft was in good solid shape in all other areas of potential wear/safety, I'd weld the hole up close to the top, then use that remaining section of the original hole as a guide to re-drill it so that a new pin can be pressed in.

Alternatively, you can drill the existing hole oversize and then bush it and ream to fit a new pin.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Barker on Monday, March 03, 2008 - 02:12 pm:

....or beat the hell out of the pin where it passes through the spider so that it is a tight fit, and then fix with Loctite.

Better still, make a new pin with a slightly oversize section to fit the spider tightly. You could ream the spider true too.
If you have access to a lathe this is the easiest and best solution. I wouldn't want to weld anything or risk getting the pin out of position so that the three planets didn't mesh properly.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky on Monday, March 03, 2008 - 03:31 pm:

The loose pin is probably caused by hitting the stops at each end too hard. If I had to fix one, I'd do as RV and weld it up and re-drill/ream for the pin. The pins are all on the same radius at 120* intervals so it wouldn't be hard for a "machine shop" to locate the hole after welding. If you drill the spider for a set screw, you could crack the spider next time the stop is hit hard.

If I had to do a quick and dirty, I'd center-punch around the pin hole at 30* intervals and press the pin back in.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Gould on Monday, March 03, 2008 - 07:56 pm:

How would someone ream the spider? You can't do it on a lathe or knee mill. On a horizonal mill? Who has that? By hand? I wouldn't count on that to be accurate. Besides, the diameter is probably a wierd size and you'd have a devil of a time locating a reamer to fit. Drill bits wobble and enlarge the hole. That's not the answer. I think the best solution is to leave the hole alone and make a step pin on a lathe, a slight bit enlarged at the end that enters the spider. Pretty easy to do if you're careful.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky on Monday, March 03, 2008 - 08:40 pm:

Why can't you do it on a lathe or knee mill? Dang, I guess I've been drilling radial pattern holes all wrong! But you're right, a new pin might be faster. I would harden the pin though. The hole may still need dressing too.

I wasn't going to show this but I guess I better support my claim.

Here's how you drill/ream radial hole patterns on a lathe. If your lathe has a built in indexer or a home-made indexer from the back spindle, you're in hog heaven.

Tool Post Drill


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Gould on Monday, March 03, 2008 - 09:08 pm:

Ah so. I take it you can lock the headstock in position???


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky on Monday, March 03, 2008 - 10:04 pm:

Yep. My lathe has a built-in indexer (60 hole) but it's not hard to make one off the bull gear or an added indexer on the back. The picture above is not my set up but I patterned mine similar. If you look closely, the drill came from a donor import bench top that frequently sells for $39.


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