Is there any reason why I cannot put a 1912 brass windshield, windshield to radiator support rods and leather support straps from top to front frame area on a 1914 body? I want the look of the 09-12, but don't care that the car would be a mutt. Mt 14 headlights are already all brass if I strip off the paint. Thanks in advance.
ps: please spare me the comment, 'if you want a 12, buy a 12' - lol
Bob, the firewall is in the same place. One problem is the front top bow will need to be longer because the windshield will be much further forward. Another issue will be that a 1912 has top bows that are 56" wide while 1914 top bows are 54" wide.
I would say if you don't already have a top on the car then you should be able to make it work. If you already have a good top then it is going to be expensive and a lot of work to replace the top and the front bow.
Probably be better and easier to sell the 1912 windshield and buy the correct 1914 windshield.
Probably be better and easier to sell the 1912 windshield and but the correct 1914 windshield.
The width of the windshield compared with the bows probably will not be a problem because the windshield is narrower then either the 54 or 56" bow, and both the bows and windshield have radius bends at the corners. I don't think you have to worry about contact that way. To be sure you can measure the flat part of your bow between the radius and compare it to your windshield.
You do need to be concerned with the front bow clearing the top of the windshield. Since the 1912 windshield is straight up and down and the 1914 sits back at an angle before going vertical that will conflict. I'm pretty sure it will work, but you will need a new front bow plus a top panel, straps and pads.
I'd suggest you speak with Vince at the J.V. group or one of the other upholstery manufacturers (not a vendor reselling kits, but an actual manufacturer). Explain what you want to do and find out what the cost will be for a custom top. It really won't be much different from any other 1914 top, just a little longer.
Next speak to the people that make the bows. John Boorinakis makes the top sockets and laminated bows, and Don Snyder and Don Lang could probably help with steam bent bows. You will need to know how long the 'arms' of the bow need to be so they reach beyond your socket and have enough length for the taper into the socket; if you allow 12" for the taper you'll be trimming some if it off.... better safe then sorry. If Lang's or Snyder's don't have a bow to sell they would probably help you contact whomever bends them.
The support rods and straps won't be any problem.
Good luck with your project!