I have a few questions about fitting my fenders but I have to figure out how to post pictures first (new digital camera)
Looks like you got 1 posted just fine.
You will need to speak fluent Fronteir Jibberish to get the fenders to fit.
Hey! It Worked!
I'm doing some trial fitting before I start on the fender bodywork and I'm not sure how everything should fit together. There seems to be a gap between the fender and the splash shield
the headlight mount is not in the middle of the hole
I'm not sure how close everything should fit. It seems like the fender and the running board have to be forced into alignment; there is a 1.25 inch difference before they are bolted together but I don't see anything bent.
I can't tell from the photos, but did you add the wood block spacers?
Did you check the frame for trueness? It is the foundation for the car. Starting with a straight frame will make the fitting process easier.
There are wood spacers between the running boards and the brackets, but not between the running boards and the fenders.
When I started the project I checked the frame for square and the distances between the body mounting holes and it seemed to be OK (as I remember). The fender lines up with the frame holes, and the fender iron isn't bent, but there is only a very small gap between the fender and the headlight post. I'm just wondering how much is normal. The frame has the forged running board brackets. I'll have to see if they are sprung out of place. I don't think I measured that before.
James: The running board brackets on mine are the early forged ones, and were really sagged. I had to bend them back into place. Not easy to do. I think that this is a common malady, due to the weight placed on the boards over the years. Also, depending on the year, your car may not require the thinner wooden blocks at the fenders. Just blocks on the running board brackets. As for the splash apron, that gap is as it should be. Check out other T's and Bruce's book for photos. With the fenders on mine, I had to bend, tweak, and trim a little to get them to fit. You're lucky that headlight stalk even goes THROUGH the hole!!!!
Thanks for the input. I'm sure after 90ish years there must be some sagging. Just wasn't sure what is considered "normal". I'll check Bruce's book for pictures. I'd appreciate other pictures from guys on the forum as to how their parts fit.
By the way, my T is a 1920/21 Canadian T with a homemade pickup body (homemade by me).
My passinger side running board brackets were very sagged too. I bent them back into place like Jeff said, but now they seem week. They seem to be sagging right back down as I enter and exit the car working on the interior. They haven't sagged enough yet to be noticable, but feel like they are bending every time I enter the car. I go quickly! lol
James & Tim,
If your running boards are weak you can purchase additional brackets known as "Fat Lady" brackets. They were developed to add support to your existing brackets.
James, My '22 Coupe had blocks at the fenders and on the running board brackets.
Where can I get Fat MAN brackets?
The gap between the fender and splash shield looks perfectly normal to me. If you get them too close they'll rattle against each other and chip the paint.
You may find that your lamp bracket has been bent in the past. A little reshaping may correct any clearance issues with the fender.
Order of assemby for my '26 Coupe. Hopefully, is the same for yours. Put bolts in but leave them loose until all parts are on then tighten as you adjust position of parts as they relate to eachother.
1. Body blocks
3. Right and left Running Board Splash Shields
4. Right and Left Rear Fenders
5. Running Board Blocks
6. Right and Left Running Boards
7. Right and Left Front Fenders
8. Right and Left Hood Shelf Blocks
9. Right and Left Hood Shelves
10. Radiator Splash Apron
12. Radiator Shell
13. Body to radiator support rod
14, Lights and fender to fender bar if there is one.
15. Hood hold down latches
17. Adjust parts, tightening nuts as you go.
James: make sure the support rod between the brackets is long enough and stout enough. That helps keep the running board brackets from from sagging. When I bent mine back into place, I did it cold, and I chained the bracket to the floor at the bend and jacked up on the end of the bracket while stress-relieving the bracket with a hammer. I chained the bracket to the floor at its bend so I wouldn't bend the FRAME! They've held up two years now, and yes, they do feel like they're bending when you step on them, but I think it's the whole car bending! No harm done....part of being a model T, I guess. Nice looking rig, and good luck with it.
I'm also fitting a new set of four Rootlieb fenders onto a 1914 runabout and have a few questions. What exactly is the configuration of the front fender-to-running board wood blocks? Would a cross section of one simply appear as a rectangle or is there a forward slope to approximate the fender angle? Both rear fenders are real tight fitting with the running boards. Is it acceptable to 'comealong' the rear running board bracket (w/ running board attached) forward while the comealong is secured to the front axle? According to the running board square holes (8), all four fenders are mounted with 1/4" carriage bolts. That right? Thanks in advance guys. See ya'll in the Indian Nation in a few days . .
James: Do you have another set of windshield frames like that? I need a set for a car I am working on. How about a close up picture of the windshield? Thanks, Dan.
George, the running board bolts are "step" bolts. Look like carriage bolts but have a larger diameter head. Someone said that Lang's carry them.
John Regan also mentioned McMaster-Carr as a source but my latest search of their catalog shows that they have combined them with "elevator" bolts which look like a flathead carriage bolt. In other words, no crown.
Good to know (about the "fat lady" brackets)You can learn something new on this forum every day! Now......where can I find such an animal??????
Quote: "When I started the project I checked the frame for square and the distances between the body mounting holes and it seemed to be OK (as I remember)."
Did you check the frame for sag?
The top of the frame should be straight, most of them are sagged.
Modern cariage head bolts have raised markings forged into the head for designation purposes. Model T carriage head bolts are smooth, as they did not have these raised markings like the ones today. To remedy this, and make a modern carriage head bolt appear vintage, I put the threaded end into a drill, press the trigger and remove the raised markings from the revolving head with a file, then smooth out the file markings with increasingly finer sandpaper until the heads are as shiney as a mirror. A little work, but well worth the effort in authenticity. Jim
The "Fat lady" brackets you inquired about are listed in the parts book from "Langs". His web site is www.modeltford.com They are on page 133 and are listed as part #4816flt.
Thank you Denny, found them. Just what the doctor ordered!
Sorry I don't have another frame, but here are some pictures. I can take more if you are interested in a particular area.