In the past I have had to jiggle my key to hear the coils sing so I could start my T. Now that no longer works....I can jiggle the key but never hear the coils, and the little jewel doesn't start. The motor turns over nicely but never fires. Before I tear into the switch do you folks have some suggestion or tips? One more question, with my key turned to the left shouldn't my test light light up when I touch the wire that connects to the bottom on the coil box? It doesn't. Its a '26 roadster truck. One more thing that probably means nothing, the magneto was taken out years ago. (I dont know why, I have been running on batt for years)
All I can tell you is that the re-build kits for switches varey. I did mine but I would recommend buying a good new one instead. I wouldn't re-build another.
The reprod switches are junk, I carry rebuilt switches in original backs rebuilt by Ben Martin. I have one 26-7 presently, the backing plate has not been replated and it has a non-FORD key, it is a 55 key its round at the rear. email me at email@example.com
As Charlie did, I rebuilt mine. The kit was worse than the junk repro switch I was rebuilding. I am now looking for an original switch to rebuild. Not sure if I will have to make my own kit or what yet.
My switch was an orig Doug and I still only got away with a few of the kit parts. The back of the switch with the contacts luckily fit well. If I remember right that was about all I used.
When I got the switch out of the dash I discovered that I could, with the key turned left, and compressing the switch from front to back make the coils sing. Also the test light lites up at that time. Everything looks ok inside. Am going back tomorrow and bend one arm of the copper "up" a little. That should make it a little closer and may work....? Or maybe I could put a tiny piece of JB weld into the notches in the sides of the housing of the switch, that should have the same effect as compressing the front to the back. Before I did either of those things I thought I should post this so you guys could all have a good laugh. Appreciate you thoughts. Thanks,
John, please send me a message about how much you would like for a 26/27 switch.
Stephan I just sent you a email johnd
Are any of the available rebuild parts any good? I have some 26-27 style switches I can work on but wonder how effective and long lived the repair would be if all I did was to bend the contact arms out more?
Any feedback on these parts?
Whenever this subject comes up I read comments saying the repo kits are junk. My experience with the one I bought from Lang's a few years ago was exactly the opposite. Its phenolic base was a big improvement over the heavy cardboard original I was replacing. Because different suppliers made Ford's switches, resulting in variations, the notches in the repo didn't quite fit the tabs on the case. It was an easy fix to just widen one of the notches with a little grinder.
Yes, mine needed a relief cut as Steve experienced. One of the pieces in the kit had the contact not even close to its mating contact. I bought the kit back in 06 or 07 as a maintenance item. Maybe they have improved since. The phenolic on mine is nice.
As mentioned, Ford had several suppliers of those switches. All of them look the same, but inside they are very different. Years ago I tried rebuilding an original. I ended up taking apart a whole bunch of switches in order to salvage enough good pieces to put one together. It seemed each one was different inside and none of the pieces would interchange.
I don't remember all of the differences I ran into, but I know there are the pin type and clip type backs. There are at least two versions of the clip type - with the notches in different locations. There are at least two different lock cylinders. On one the tumblers are fixed in the cylinder, on the other they fall out when you pull out the key. The second style has a metal ring which fits around the cylinder which holds the tumblers in. They way the lock cylinder is held in the switch assembly also varies.
I usually tell people buying these that the reproduction parts may work, they may need modification, or they may not work. You'll have to take the switch apart and try them.
The company that made the switches from with the phenolic base and they also made the locks the owner dies and the business went under
i have the same problem, i bough a new tumbler and it wouldn,t fit in the same hole, so i put the key tumblers in the old one and now like you said when you take the key out the tumblers wont stay in, how can you fix this.
We are supplying Langs with a new switchbacks, both the pin, and tab type. Give them a try! Haven't had any complaints yet. We only supply the switch back, NO KITS.
The cardboard seems to be the big problem. It warps, probably causing poor contact between it and the moveable copper piece causing heat and the copper loses any springiness it had. Nice to know the back's available by itself Larry.
Larry what about the rest of the switch parts, contacts, center hub where the lock fits into??
Yeah I was contemplating buying one of those rebuilt switches myself, because the new switch would run the car but the lights wouldn't turn on. I compared it to other switches and found that the little bridge piece that connects between the battery and the lights wasn't on my switch. so I made one out of a piece of brass strap I had laying about and now my switch works just fine.
And Steve's right the phenolic back is way better than that heavy cardboard back, it never gets wet nor does it absorb moisture, so the pins never work loose nor does it ever short out.
I have used the reproduction switch parts in 2 of my cars and they work fine.
In fact the one original switch I had rebuilt does not work any better than the other two reproduction switchbacks I installed.
I do believe in using good original parts but if they dont work any better than what I spent on getting an original 'rebuilt' by the best I'll stick with the reproduction parts and save some money.
Bending the center copper contact arms upward did the trick. Also brushed the tips with sandpaper.
I haven't had a problem finding original parts. You have to be willing to look for them.
Buy one that has been built by Ben Martin, either from him or a vendor. They are quality built and the only way to go.
Looking at a tab type 26 switch, it seems to me that a mild contact issue from a rebuilt DIY project may be due to not bending the tabs down aggressively enough, thus keeping the back from tensioning the contacts enough. Thoughts?
Anyone ever tried Crazy Glue to repair those old switch backs? I've used it dozens of times to get the areas back together where the pins are. The tab types don't have as much of a problem in that regard.