Can i use brass-8/32x1/2" countersunk screws on the diferential brake bands and hold them with nuts on the rear of the shoes,. On a large drum car,intead of rivvits ??

I don't see why not, but I'd peen the ends so the nuts stay put.

Can you get some solid brass rivets? If so you could back them up with a punch and peen the end over with a small ball peen hammer. A typical brake rivet is solid with a tubular end that gets rolled over when its set.

With some practice you could make a stepped punch with an inside radius at the step to do this. A C type riveting tool would make this much easier. You can find these new and used on the Internet. Maybe there is an MTFCA member near you that has one.

There are two possible problems with the screws: One is unless the ends are peened over they could come loose. The most important difference is that with a rivet you have a full diameter in shear while with a screw you have only the root diameter in shear and the thread is a stress riser so it is much weaker.

The lining wants to slide against the shoe and the rivet assure it slides against the brake drum.
I think you need a rivet.

I figure the brass wears with the band and wont wear the drum ,I will peen over the nut ends
i will drill the bands and tighten down on the screw so it will sink into the band and make its seat ..Thank you all for the input

I think it'll work with small brass screws.

The problem with relining the 26/27 emergency brakes for me is to get the new lining thin enough to fit without dragging.. Thus the screw heads has to be really thin. I bought some old pre drilled lining material from eBay & riveted with aluminum pop rivets.

Pop rivets should be strong enough for the shear forces involved, but I'll have to find a way to grind off about 1/32" evenly from the lining.. Brake shops used to have radius grinders for brake shoes, but if someone still has one they probably won't like asbestos dust in their shop..
Belt sanding might give good enough accuracy? It's just for emergencies after all

Roger.I was think that if i glue them tight with contact cement let dry wedged against the drum ,then drill and screw them on,so i can get a real close fit.
You can allways file the band where the cam goes to make the fit [no drag]...Dont mess with asbestos in dust form

If you are going to go through this much work to install these, why not just buy the rivets and put them in? They cost .20 each.