I was going to button up the linkage from the brake pedal to the Rocky Mountain Brake cross shaft but got to thinking that it might be a good idea to see if mebbee it might need adjustment.

I did a quick check for a PDF copy of the installation instructions but these folks do not have a website!!!

How should this bit be adjusted?



BTW, ALL four of the bolts/nuts on the cross shaft were loose. I could not see any reason why they should be so I tightened them . . .

Vintage Paul

The clamps which attach the equalizer to the cross shaft should be adjusted so that it swings freely without any binding.

This is how I adjust the Rocky Mountain Brakes. I start with the Ford parking brake adjustment. With the parking brake lever all the way forward,I get it adjusted so that the clevis pins will go in easily without having to force the rods back. Both wheels should lock with the break lever pulled back to the same notch. Next adjust the shoes on the rocky mountain brakes so that the tightest part is at least .020 from the drum. Both sides should be adjusted equally. Then the rods to the Rocky brakes should be adjusted so that they are completely tight when the parking brake is pulled one notch farther than the parking brake. The idea is to first apply the Ford parking brake and then the Rocky Mountain brakes so you will have good brakes when you roll backward. You might at this point remove the clevis pins from the parking brake so that you can be sure the Rocky Mountains are equalized and both wheels stop with the same pedal pressure. The equalizer should be perpendicular to the drive shaft when the brake is on. When you get these adjustments right, put in clevis pins and cotter pins.

Next adjust the transmission brake to lock the wheels with the pedal about one inch above the floorboard. Then last of all adjust the linkage between the pedal and the Rocky Mountain brake to apply about 1 1/2 inches above the floorboard.

When all is done, what you are aiming for is with light pedal pressure the Rocky Mountain brakes will apply first, and then with harder pressure, the transmission brake will apply. When you back up you will need to push hard on the pedal to stop, because the Rocky's don't work very well in reverse.

The end result will be with the foot brake the Rocky Mountains will do most of the stopping, but the transmission brake will work for backing up and for emergencies. The parking brake will be first when you pull on the hand lever, and pulling hard will also apply the Rocky Brakes.

Before you do any serious driving, find a safe place and try stopping quickly. Both wheels should lock up at the same pedal pressure, or parking brake notch. If not, loosen the band on the side which slides until you get them to stop at the same pressure.
Norm

In addition to Normans's excellent procedure,there are also a couple of threads on the topic.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/70219.html?1224933931

and this one.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/48941.html?1203959619

Thanks guys, I'll have to study this all up some. I had not understood that the parking brake was supposed to work with the rockies. I guess that explains why the use of the same cross shaft. Mebbee I should not have tightened the fixings after all. This will need more pondering . . .

Vintage Paul

Paul,

You are correct that you should not have tightened the yolk for the Rockies on the hand brake shaft. That yolk needs to move independent of the hand brake shaft. The Rockies will apply when you pull the hand brake back and the hand brake shaft contacts the yolk for the Rockies.