To all you who have been trying to reach Ed Bittner at True-Fire Ignition, I have some tips. Try using his new email address email@example.com and his phone no. 203-245-4524. I got this info from Langs, Chaffins and from the White Pages. I've had a True-Fire system on my car since 2008 and had no problems until two weeks ago when the car would not start. No buzz from the control box and no spark to the plugs. I read where no-one could reach Ed so I contacted a friend of mine and he said try Langs. I also tried Chaffins Garage and they said that they could not contact him, but gave me the new email address. Langs said they had no problems and gave me his phone number. I checked the White Pages and found Ed still living in Madison, CT. I sent an email to firstname.lastname@example.org and Ed answered right back. I sent my control unit to him and he checked it out and pronounced it fine and suggested that I try checking all connections and contacts, that's my job tomorrow. So give him a try, I did and had no problem.
Open the box, you'll find a 4 amp fast blow fuse and I'll bet you dollars to doughnuts it's blown. George Clipner had the same problem last Wed. over at my house. We went down to the local Radio Shack and he bought a new one, worked fine after that.
Thanks for this information Bruce & Martin. I bought my '20 Roadster last year, and it had the true-fire already on it. Being a newby, it seemed fine to me. Then lately, I've noticed there's no "buzz" like it's supposed to do, but still works fine otherwise. Wonder if this fuse would just be the problem for the lacking buzz. I'll check it out. Good to have an otherwise new contact address, until he changes it again!
I realize this thread is a bit old, but I'm a newbie and my 1924 touring/pickup came with a Truefire unit installed. My unit doesn't buzz but otherwise seems to work, did replacing the fuse restore the desired buzz? Do I need to pull the Truefire unit out of my coil box to check the fuse?
I haven't driven my car much yet, but I pulled the plugs (Motorcraft F11) and found them all very sooty with carbon. They were all gapped at 0.025, so I cleaned them and regapped them to 0.045 per the Truefire directions. Hopefully, they'll fire hotter and stay clean now.
Yes, replace the fuse and it should buzz. This happened to me when doing some tests. I replaced the 4amp with a 6amp. Get the fuse from radioshack.
I had trouble with .045gap kept testing down to .025. Don't know why mine wouldn't work on .)045 as recommended. As far as soot is concerned, you may have your carb a little rich. If #1 is sooty around the edges but center insulater is grey or tan , yer good to go. I had to rebuild my carb (NH ) to achieve this.
What is the secret of opening that box?
I have a bad box that was sent back to Ed and repaired 18 months ago.
The car was in storage most of that time, perhaps that causes a problem.
This time I would like to see for myself what is in that box to go bad.
I'm planning to build a TrueFire test stand.
I can see that the fuse looks good.
Next, I might try an E-timer.
One common problem that I have found on several vehicles is the ground wire gets corroded where it is attached to the engine or body.
The Truefire does need a full 6 volts to properly operate.