One thing that is nasty about the forums is how scattered the information is. Lets compile all the great ideas on one thread. Links to other threads are good too. All good ideas are welcome. Here is my idea
Step 1: plug the inlet on the side of the block
Step 2: pour one container of CLR into the waterjacket. Fill the rest of the void with water. (Is using CLR a bad idea??)
Step 3:after a day or two drain the mixture and rinse very well to avoid continued erosion.
Step 4: use a device purpose built to attach to the inlet of the waterjacket to both fill up the water jacket with clean water and then have a valve to "dump" compressed air behind the water to quickly expell it. thus removing any rust that is in suspension in the water.
How does that sound to everyone? I have already done step 4 before with some success. Below is a pic of the device.
http://s820.photobucket.com/user/bunkertherabbit/media/IMG_20130507_201553.jpg.h tml?sort=3&o=0
at the bottom you can see a red valve handle. this cuts on and off the water. You can also see a water hose attached to the end of this device. You can also see the male section of a compressed air fitting. This valve attaches to an air compressor and dumps the air into the waterjacket.
here is a good one on using acids...
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/124463.html?1265459915
step by step on using phosphoric acid to clean the W-J
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/130810.html?1268877798
I think using hose with good water pressure and pumping air at the same time would send the water thru the jackets with enough force to dislodge any rust flakes. Yours is a good idea for removing all the loose and semi loose debris. Following up with an acid flush should clean everything up. I would think it a must to fill the block with a rust inhibitor as soon as possible because the rust will reappear almost before your eyes after the acid bath.
It's really not a big job to pull the head and clean out the block yourself using fine tools and a shopvac. It probably won't even take you an hour. I did my '26 Touring and was quite happy with how clean the block ended up being. There were some very large chunks of crud in the block so I'd think the flushing business would be better off being done after a proper cleaning out first.
Regards all,
Garnet
My brother and I treated his block and head separately with CLR and it worked great. Be careful not to fill the jackets up completely at first. It foams like crazy which told us it was working as we expected. I also recommend precleaning the loose larger chunks out first.
I haven't gone back to look at any of the old threads, so this might be in one. Has anyone tried using a small cable of the proper length with the end frayed? You would put it in a electric drill and let it whip around inside the water jacket or the head.
It seems like it would work.
Herb
herb, It isnt in the threads i posted and i have looked around for a bunch of ideas and havent seen that one. I am considering taking two or three or four brass guitar strings about two foot long and chucking them in a cordless drill and beating the crud off the inside of the WJ with them.
Ford sells this for their modern cars. Maybe it can help.
F8AZ-19A503-AA Chemical Flush.
I ALWAYS mix the water and CLR in a separate container before I pour it into the engine.
I have never left the CLR mixture in more than 40 minutes. Should I leave it in longer? Is it safe to do so?
i have never used CLR, perhaps someone else will chime in.
The active ingredient of CLR is HCL ,or Muratic acid. Leaving it in cast iron very long may result in less than satisfactory results. If you do decide to use,be sure to flush with water followed by baking soda to neutralize any remaining acid. Them a phosphate treat to coat the block to prevent further rusting.
I will be flushing a '53 Chev with the head off & radiator out this week.
I did not know to use baking soda afterwards.
I have always flushed them both ways for at least a half hour after draining the CLR though,
and then try to fill it up with water right away to at least dilute the CLR in case any is trapped some place.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnOZ2MZt5FY&list=UUFVx528ORtpDgCPJXbFCA6w&index=1 9
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJ3nkPm87X0&list=UUFVx528ORtpDgCPJXbFCA6w&index=1 8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSLn4KeT3do&list=UUFVx528ORtpDgCPJXbFCA6w&index=1 7
A new or re-cored radiator doesn't hurt.
I will be flushing a '53 Chev with the head off & radiator out this week.
I did not know to use baking soda afterwards.
I have always flushed them both ways for at least a half hour after draining the CLR though,
and then try to fill it up with water right away to at least dilute the CLR in case any is trapped some place.